Ok, curiosity got me...
09-01-2019, 10:48 AM
#11
I just don’t wanna fight a set to get them in just bc I’m not spending $1k. After talking to TSP they told me they suggest using a 45* O2 sensor adaptor to get around the bung issue for their stainless LTs.
09-01-2019, 01:12 PM
#12
I didn't have fit issues with the O2 sensor on my TSPs. I did however have to peen in a dime sized area to clear the bolts for the front driveshaft strap at the diff. Don't know the cylinder number for that primary. I pushed it in probably 1/4" with a torch and a ball peen. Works great for me, results and opinions may vary
09-01-2019, 07:06 PM
#13
I had problems on my truck with whatever (stainless) headers it is that I have, hitting the front differential yoke.
Ended up making a little bracket out of strip stock to bolt to the motor near the bell housing and hold the headers ½" or so farther from the motor. Had to use 2 header gaskets at the head to make sure it didn't leak up there, from the header being bent / warped / whatever out of square with the head. NBD. Probably coulda dented the header tube but I did this instead.
I have a hard time believing that F-body stuff would clear the 4WD stuff any better than 4WD stuff designed to clear the 4WD stuff. Especially given that sometimes, not even that does what it's supposed to.
Ended up making a little bracket out of strip stock to bolt to the motor near the bell housing and hold the headers ½" or so farther from the motor. Had to use 2 header gaskets at the head to make sure it didn't leak up there, from the header being bent / warped / whatever out of square with the head. NBD. Probably coulda dented the header tube but I did this instead.
I have a hard time believing that F-body stuff would clear the 4WD stuff any better than 4WD stuff designed to clear the 4WD stuff. Especially given that sometimes, not even that does what it's supposed to.
09-02-2019, 06:24 AM
#14
Ok, so as long as the mounts are in good shape they have no collector or O2 sensor bung issues, that’s good to know.
I just don’t wanna fight a set to get them in just bc I’m not spending $1k. After talking to TSP they told me they suggest using a 45* O2 sensor adaptor to get around the bung issue for their stainless LTs.
I just don’t wanna fight a set to get them in just bc I’m not spending $1k. After talking to TSP they told me they suggest using a 45* O2 sensor adaptor to get around the bung issue for their stainless LTs.
09-02-2019, 10:02 AM
#15
Thats good to know. It still baffles me how some of these brands make simple mistakes like poor O2 bung placements and other easily fixed during design issues. I mean it’s not rocket science and I’d think at least there are donor trucks to test during product design. My money says almost all are done on 2wd drive trucks only during the design and then marketed for both applications just assuming any issues will not be enough to stop sales.
09-04-2019, 11:24 AM
#16
I have speed engineering on my truck and they fit excellent. Had a rubbing issue that I fixed by replacing the driver side engine mount. My issue was the mount broke and the engine was jumping up too high and pulling the header up against the frame rail.
On the 99-07 trucks with speed engineering headers I have seen some threads where people had fitment issues that turned out to be worn engine mounts allowing the engine to sag down. I had a 2004 Sierra that was stock and very well taken care of, but if you looked closely at the oil pan vs the crossmember it wasn't level, which means the engine was tilted a little. If that well taken care of stock truck had mounts wear and sag on it then I imagine all of those trucks could easily have that issue.
Not sure which gen truck you're doing these on, all the trucks have engine mount issues, the 07-13 style are the worst about breaking them, 99-07 sag and we're just seeing what will come with 14+. I have already broken one on my 14 truck.
So.. do new OE mounts when you do the headers if you really want to avoid fitment issues.
09-04-2019, 05:44 PM
#19
Personally I would go with speed engineering or texas speed. My only complaint with the speed engineering headers is the slip fit collectors fit pretty loose so it's hard to get them to seal. If you get them welded together or flanges put on it's a non issue. My speed engineering have thick flanges, fit well, and no weld splatter etc. They're really nice and have merge spikes in them also. I really don't see a reason to buy more expensive headers considering all that.