Official NBS V6 to GENIII V8 swap Guide
#331
No crank sensor signal
So added power to my ecm fuses and got it to crank over as it should. BUT reason for no spark is my crank sensor not getting signal.
Any chance there’s a correlation between a check engine light power source to the crank sensor?
No check engine light, light showing.
Any wiring diagrams would be amazing.
Any chance there’s a correlation between a check engine light power source to the crank sensor?
No check engine light, light showing.
Any wiring diagrams would be amazing.
#332
Fuel lines
Hey guys I read through the thread and didnt get a solid answer to how to make the fuel system work I'm trying to go the minimalist route in my swap 2003 scsb with a 4.3 (runs good just so damn gutless) to a 03 5.3 (purchased a crashed suburban) . The 4.3 is returnless and the 5.3 is a return system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
#333
100% Redneck
Hey guys I read through the thread and didnt get a solid answer to how to make the fuel system work I'm trying to go the minimalist route in my swap 2003 scsb with a 4.3 (runs good just so damn gutless) to a 03 5.3 (purchased a crashed suburban) . The 4.3 is returnless and the 5.3 is a return system any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
You'll need the larger of the two lines (top).
You can see I chose to use "quick disconnect" fittings on the fuel lines
so I did not need to cut the hard lines like the original post in this thread.
If you look closely you can see the return type fuel rail on the left (two fuel lines) and the non return rail on the right with a single supply line. The non return fuel rail doesn't have the fuel regulator on the rail. The fuel regulator is on the fuel pump on your system... so no worries about the regulator.
Last edited by RedXray; 08-05-2019 at 11:53 AM.
#335
Fuel
Stock Fuel pump works with the 5.3
#337
Tge truck isn’t done yet so nothing is connected besides the fuel lines.
1 physical line and evap line. When I took out the engine I heated up the lines with a heat gun and bent them close to the firewall. Kinda a temp fix till I make sure it’s running. Will run AN lines later. Need my harness installed. But yeah, easy swap. 05 Yukon drive by wire set up. Same fuel delivery. No regulator needed from what I saw on that Yukon.
1 physical line and evap line. When I took out the engine I heated up the lines with a heat gun and bent them close to the firewall. Kinda a temp fix till I make sure it’s running. Will run AN lines later. Need my harness installed. But yeah, easy swap. 05 Yukon drive by wire set up. Same fuel delivery. No regulator needed from what I saw on that Yukon.
#338
100% Redneck
Here is what you need to connect to the fuel rail hard line... to the existing fuel line on the firewall.
Quick Connect
Earl's 3/8 hard line tubing adapter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Earls-16500...72.m2749.l2649
Russell -6AN 12" Nitrous Line
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-658...72.m2749.l2649
#339
I just checked out my 4.3 and I have two hardlines coming from the firewall. I know one is the fed obviously but will the other be a return ? If so I'd just buy the adapters and line to hook up my return system to the existing lines and that should do it right ?
#340
100% Redneck
The hard part is guessing where to cut the hardlines at the firewall. There are two bends in the hardlines so you'll either have to cut above or below the bends. Above the bend may make the braided lines push up to high. I cut below the bends but this leaves little room for error and the braided lines may come up short. In my case the return barely reached the fuel rail.
I set the engine in just for a test fit to see where the braided fuel lines would set in relation to the hardlines on the firewall, marked the hardlines then pulled the engine back out. (this was easy because I had the core support removed).
Since I already did the "legwork" you can use my photo as a template to estimate where you need to cut.
In the photos the braided lines are laying approximate to where the cuts should be done. If I were to do this again I'd probably cut above the bends then shove the access down instead of trying to pull the lines up to correct the minor length adjustment. Just remember the hardline adapters will not work directly on the bends.
Core support removed allowing easy access, cleaning, painting, line cutting and easy engine/trans install (not necessary just showing my process)
The "S" looking tube (bungee string) is the evap line. The other two are the cut fuel supply & return.
Lines hanging approximately in area of the uncut hardlines