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OE Cam choice or mild aftermarket?

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Old Feb 26, 2026 | 10:29 PM
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Default OE Cam choice or mild aftermarket?

anyone use the 01 ls6 cam in a lq4/lq9 1500 truck or ls2 or ls3 cam in a ly6 truck????
so here's what I've got going on... I'm slapping together my own version of the LS364 for my gmt800 2wd tahoe... tho not sure if I'm going to stick with the rect port heads. but not to get off topic about cyl head choices... I'm looking at mild cam choices.. I have all the LS factory cams but ls9 and L33 laying around.. some mild cams I'm looking at are the summit stg1 high lift, sdpc ht1, tick stg1 etc. I do have the sdpc ls6 max cam nib in my garage that I was going to use before I decided to just swap up to a 6L cuz I'll be much happier when going from my cars to my truck (tho so would throwing my asa cam in the lq9 for my Tahoe lol..)

but how well will a cam with a wider lsa drive in a 5k lbs truck? has anyone used either ls6 cams? I ran the 5308 cam in my t56 car for years and it doesn't have much low end and the power band doesn't kick in til mid 4k rpms, but worked great being paired with 4.10 gears in a 3k lbs car. but when it kicked in, it was like a small shot of nos. but the 01 ls6 cam which the ls2 was based off of has a slightly tighter LSA of 116 vs the 117.5 lsa. So if its good enough for a tbss, I would think it should be good in a 2wd Tahoe, having decent low-mid being a LQ9 no? the cyl head choice I have not made my mind up on. cuz one thing I would like to do is not have to always run 93 gas... but I know it'll be easier to just run 93 with any top end combo and be easy to tune. another factor is hoping not to max out stock fuel pump to have to upgrade another vehicle's fuel system. I was planning to use the tbss or L92 intake with the 33lb injectors and harness adapters and call it done.

if it wasn't the closest thing I have to a normal vehicle, I'd just go with nice choppy cam, long tubes etc.. .but I don't want that. I have my cars and old k1500 for fun. And I also like the idea of a factory cam with factory springs for longevity and not loud and choppy to attract unwanted attn late at night. but its loud enough with ory pipe and slp loud mouth resonator. also might use the 4.2L trailblazer converter to bump stall up that lil bit. that's basically the only thing I have to buy besides the injector harness adapters.

so go for the 01 ls6 cam or mild aftermarket?

thanks in advance
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 08:42 AM
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I think Will Hendzel used that combination on his book called How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS/LS6 V-8...

So I would say it will work just fine. The added displacement will help. A 2wd Tahoe is going to be on the lighter side of full-sized trucks too. I'm guessing it has 3.42 gears? Some 3.73 may be a better option, depending on what tire size you are running.

Is this a daily/cruiser vehicle?
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 11:05 AM
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I'm slapping together my own version of the LS364
What does this mean? Are you sure you're "slapping" and not "throwing"? Sounds like some form of 6.0 or other; is that what it'll be?

I was planning to use the tbss or L92 intake
TBSS intake fits cathedral-port heads; L92 is square-port. While you can force the wrong intake to fit on heads, it's rarely optimum.

Make your head choice first. Everything else depends on that.

In a 5000 lb truck with highway gears and tall tires, a cam meant for a car 1500-2000 lbs lighter with better gears, is SURE TO disappoint. Meanwhile, ANY stock cam is ALSO sure to disappoint. Just because you "have" it "laying around" doesn't make it the right choice. The EFFFFF-UP of a poorly chosen cam lingers LONG AFTER the "free" wears off.

You're probably gonna want intake duration in the 212 - 216° sort of range. For cathedral port heads, exh duration will want to be maybe 4 - 6° more than int; for square ports, more like 8 - 10° more. Aim for as much lift as you're willing to buy valve springs for, and willing to take all the "high lift" risks, like breaking parts. Pretty sure you can get any number of cams like that from just about anybody; TSP, Vinci, Summit, BTR, etc. I agree, "loud" and "chop" and all the rest of that teenager chicken-choking crap, is a total waste of mental bandwidth, and detracts from the USEFULNESS of a vehicle. 33 lb/hr injectors is about the absolute bare minimum; stock LR4/LM7/LQ4/LQ9 ones are something like 28 or 29 lb/hr, and are all but COMPLETELY maxed out in a STOCK LQ9. 36 lb/hr might be a better choice; FF ones, or marine 8.1 ones, might be another good way to go.

You don't mention what gears you have although a 2WD Hoe seems likely to have 3.42 . As long as you have that, you're kinda stuck with making sure the engine will make REALLY good torque at 1600 RPM or so, whatever it is when the TCC applies at its lowest speed, otherwise the TCC will constantly "hunt" at around-town speeds. Especially if it has those horrible gas-mileage-only gears.

In general (VERY general) a tight LSA produces more idle chop, more low-end torque, moves the peak torque RPM higher, and the peak HP RPM lower, i.e. makes the engine more "peaky" and wanting to run its best within a narrow RPM range, compared to an otherwise identical cam w wider LSA. A wider LSA does the opposite of course, and lowers both the peak torque and the peak HP, butt sort of "smears" out the curves toward higher RPMs, such that the "area under the curves" is about the same as a narrower LSA design, and doesn't fall off quite as fast once past the peak HP RPM; as such, tends to be a bit more DD friendly although usually not as "fast" at the strip, butt makes overall about the same amount of power over a wide range of operating conditions. Stock cams tend to have pretty wide LSA, like usually 114 - 117°. A good range to shoot for in a DD is 112 - 114°.
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Old Feb 28, 2026 | 09:35 AM
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Aftermarket over OE pretty much any day depending on your use case. But yes LS6 cam was a relatively low buck popular mod at one point
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