Nitrous. Should I get a dry or wet kit?
#1
Please help me out guys. I'm wanting to ad a NX kit but I'm not sure on which one would be best for me, and safest. I haven't called NX yet to get their opinion but I will before I buy. I'm only wanting to add 75-100 shot. Are the LS-1 F-bodies better at handling a dry shot then our trucks? It seems they will spray dry without much hesitation, but I've been reading through the archives and not many run dry on these trucks. Thanks for any opinions.
#4
The wet system has been a very popular way to go. NX kits come with a Shark Nozzle that sprays nitrous and fuel into the motor so you don't have to worry about having a problem if an injector locks up.
Tom
Tom
#6
Each has their own advantages and disadvanages.
MAF compesating Dry kits are very simple in system architecture. Bottle, line, solenoid, switch & fanspray. While their simplicity is great they do rely upon the PCM being able to "see" the nitrous and add appropriate fuel. Injector sizing, fuel pressure, pump delivery volume and OE A/F monitoring are essetial to proper system operation.
Fuel Pressure Boosting Dry kits are a bit more complicated with the addition of a bypass pressure regulator and another solenoid. This system does not rely upon the PCM's ability to "see" the nitrous but mechanically forces the OEM regulator to hold higher pressure add appropriate fuel. While this system doesn't require the OE A/F monitoring system, injectors and flow rate is still essential.
Fogger based Wet kits have more plumbing but are relatively simple kits. Wet kits work independant of the PCM and do not require PSM intervention for fuel enrichment. This does elimiate PCM restrictors (injector flow rate) but still requires some consideration regarding the pump's flow in relation desired HP.
Bottle pressure plays a much larger role in tuning in a wet kit than a dry. While Bottle pressure will effect total output of a dry it will not play a role in mixture ratio as in a wet. When on the street this is a larger factor than when on the track especially when equiped with a bottle warmer.
The wet will allow you to achieve higher HP on stock components but the dry can just as easily make the same power, just costs more to do.
Richard
MAF compesating Dry kits are very simple in system architecture. Bottle, line, solenoid, switch & fanspray. While their simplicity is great they do rely upon the PCM being able to "see" the nitrous and add appropriate fuel. Injector sizing, fuel pressure, pump delivery volume and OE A/F monitoring are essetial to proper system operation.
Fuel Pressure Boosting Dry kits are a bit more complicated with the addition of a bypass pressure regulator and another solenoid. This system does not rely upon the PCM's ability to "see" the nitrous but mechanically forces the OEM regulator to hold higher pressure add appropriate fuel. While this system doesn't require the OE A/F monitoring system, injectors and flow rate is still essential.
Fogger based Wet kits have more plumbing but are relatively simple kits. Wet kits work independant of the PCM and do not require PSM intervention for fuel enrichment. This does elimiate PCM restrictors (injector flow rate) but still requires some consideration regarding the pump's flow in relation desired HP.
Bottle pressure plays a much larger role in tuning in a wet kit than a dry. While Bottle pressure will effect total output of a dry it will not play a role in mixture ratio as in a wet. When on the street this is a larger factor than when on the track especially when equiped with a bottle warmer.
The wet will allow you to achieve higher HP on stock components but the dry can just as easily make the same power, just costs more to do.
Richard
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mz00516
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