I fixed the ticking, it was the o-ring that seals the oil pick up tube to the oil pump. Thank you Phasemaster for your help!!!! I have $500.00 worth of drivetrain parts sitting in my garage now, but I will wait to see if the ticking returns.

For the record, the ls6 pump o-ring is only for the ls1/6 cars and WILL NOT work for the truck pick up tubes. This o-ring was blue in color, smaller and thinner than the red one that is designed for my 5.3. The new one was thicker and fit snug onto the pick up tube. When the blue one was installed, I could move the pick yube up and down even though the bolt was tight.

I will post up pics and part numbers tomorrow comparing the 2 o-rings.

BUT, now I have extremely high oil pressure. 65-70 at idle and pegged at 80 at WOT. My change engine oil light comes on at start up sometimes, and pressure really doesnt drop.

Any direction on where to look? PLEASE HELP!!

 

thats strange. I used the blue o ring and havent had any issues since (about a year and a half). Is the oil pump shimmed??

 

blue oring here too

 

Here's a copy and past of the GM bulliten on the subject. I do always find it interesting that companies are selling these "LS6" oil pumps and yet when you look them up in the GM cataloging system, all gen III engines take the same oil pump part number. The pump that comes in the LS6 engines is the same part number/part as comes in a stock 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, and non H.O. 5.7L's.






Subject: Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) #02-06-01-038 - (12/02/2002)



Models: 2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro

2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette

2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird

2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2001-2003 GMC Sierra

with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).

Cause
The O-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.

Correction
Inspect the O-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

12557752
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

(F and Y Cars)
1

12563963
Seal-O/Pmp (O-ring)

(C/K Trucks)
1

 

Good info Zippy.

Any direction to diagnose why the oil pressure is so high?

 

get a mechanical gauge and make sure its working right.

 

Do you know the best place to tap into the oil supply to get the pressure?

Thanks!

 

I think you need an adapter that takes the place of the oil filter, and screw a pressure guage into that... you will have a hard time getting it into the oil pressure sensor hole, as the threads are diffrent...

Brian

 

Yeah Aleast The Ticking Is Gone......

 

you could tap the part that is above your oil filter. SINCE there is a bulletin does that mean warranty will cover this split o-ring? is it detrimental to engine longevity?