Originally Posted by zippy

to pull this off you need to have some scanning or logging ability. you don't want to go too low into your range, but i like to start at around 1200 or so and up to a few hundred past what the converter is stalling at currently. begin by adding in timing only first 1º at a time. for example in your turbo truck if you're flat footed at 2300 and have no KR* there, add a degree of timing to it. if you still have no KR* there add another, as you begin adding timing though you'll find the stall will be slowly getting higher. keep an eye on the a/f. if you don't have a wideband to watch this with simply watch the standard 02 readings. once you do begin to see KR* you want to find what rpm it comes in at and up the VE in that area by 1-2%. this will simply tell you (if you don't have a wideband) if you are seeing KR* do to a lean a/f ratio. withing going to heavily into this after installing a higher stall as you have both done you want to spend a pretty good amount of time working on the timing in the tables from around 3k and down. someone with plenty of experience can get it roughed in after a few tries. if you aren't very familier with programming and are trying it yourself you'll find that with very small steps in the spark and fuel tables you can gain a considerable amount of torque at the lower end of the powerband often raising the stall speed a noticable amount.

Originally Posted by Weedo

I spoke with PI, they said to send it back and they'd redo it. Again, problem being $500 to uninstall, $50 to ship, $50 to ship back, $500 to reinstall, all because it wasn't made to my specs.

Originally Posted by zippy

to pull this off you need to have some scanning or logging ability. you don't want to go too low into your range, but i like to start at around 1200 or so and up to a few hundred past what the converter is stalling at currently. begin by adding in timing only first 1º at a time. for example in your turbo truck if you're flat footed at 2300 and have no KR* there, add a degree of timing to it. if you still have no KR* there add another, as you begin adding timing though you'll find the stall will be slowly getting higher. keep an eye on the a/f. if you don't have a wideband to watch this with simply watch the standard 02 readings. once you do begin to see KR* you want to find what rpm it comes in at and up the VE in that area by 1-2%. this will simply tell you (if you don't have a wideband) if you are seeing KR* do to a lean a/f ratio. withing going to heavily into this after installing a higher stall as you have both done you want to spend a pretty good amount of time working on the timing in the tables from around 3k and down. someone with plenty of experience can get it roughed in after a few tries. if you aren't very familier with programming and are trying it yourself you'll find that with very small steps in the spark and fuel tables you can gain a considerable amount of torque at the lower end of the powerband often raising the stall speed a noticable amount.

Originally Posted by Tiburon

Those are insane laber cost and shipping cost.
Zippy, I have not done any tuning for the stall. I will look into it once I am out for vac.

Originally Posted by zippy

that's a great example. the stock 03' blazer the dp tuned at the track last week achieved a 2.1 60' with a stock 3.42 open rear mostly due to just having extra timing in the right places.

here is some info from a tb converter we installed.

tb converter

Originally Posted by zippy

i certainly would have went with the vigilante in your case also. it sounds as if PI were assuming your truck was making more boost down low than it is. once you get it tuned it'll be better, but down the road you'll still want to have it restalled.