My 6.0 4L80E Build, So far...
Jan 5, 2009 | 10:32 AM
#11
Yup I do have one extra good 317 with 68k on it that looks to be in perfect condition if someone needs one, pm me to discuss price. I hit the cylinder wall with a little scotch bright pad and it looks to be ok. Very mild surface crap. I'm sure a machine shop can hone it out quite easily.
I do have a question regarding that though. If they need to take a few thousands out of that cylinder to clean it up, then they should match the rest of the cylinders by taking the same amount out of them right? Can anyone recommend a brand of forged pistons. They don't have to be a crazy racing set, just stronger then stockers as this truck will not see much if any track use.
I do have a question regarding that though. If they need to take a few thousands out of that cylinder to clean it up, then they should match the rest of the cylinders by taking the same amount out of them right? Can anyone recommend a brand of forged pistons. They don't have to be a crazy racing set, just stronger then stockers as this truck will not see much if any track use.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...2em118Q2el1247
Jan 5, 2009 | 10:57 AM
#13
I'm gonna suggest that you go with the next size bigger pistons and just have it bored. I tried to keep my motor stock bored and just honed to clean it up a little and it runs great and doesn't use any oil, but I have fairly loud piston slap on cold start up. I used Maule pistons and they recommend a .003 clearance and my machinist said he honed the min he could and it still left a few shadows and and it ended up with .004 clearance, and it made a BIG difference on cold start noise. Quite as can be once it runs for a couple minutes. With that rust, you should go the next size bigger on bore IMO. 
Jan 5, 2009 | 06:19 PM
#16
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2008
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I have returned the underdriven pulley and I went with you're guy's suggestion and will have my machine shop bore the cylinders to accommodate the forged pistons FastBrick suggested. Great price, $420, haha 420....Thanks for your help guys!
Jan 5, 2009 | 09:19 PM
#17
pinned? I'm guessing that means the pulley and shaft end are drilled and pinned so the pulley never slips? Do I need to do this too?
I have returned the underdriven pulley and I went with you're guy's suggestion and will have my machine shop bore the cylinders to accommodate the forged pistons FastBrick suggested. Great price, $420, haha 420....Thanks for your help guys!
I have returned the underdriven pulley and I went with you're guy's suggestion and will have my machine shop bore the cylinders to accommodate the forged pistons FastBrick suggested. Great price, $420, haha 420....Thanks for your help guys!
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Yes you should have it drilled and pinned. If you spin the pulley on the crank snout you will damage both the Crank and the pulley... can be very expensive to fix. The have to pull the crank and clean the snout and the pulley will have to chucked up in a lathe and bored out for a custom made sleeve. In really bad cases They end up getting a little woble from spinning and eventually snap the snout off...
Jan 5, 2009 | 09:51 PM
#18
Your gona need some new rods too, those pistons won't work with the stock rods...
The Schwanke's are good people. I've meet the dad and his son. One of my buddies runs one of their circle track Late Model engines in his race car. They do a LOT of gen III motor stuff.
The Schwanke's are good people. I've meet the dad and his son. One of my buddies runs one of their circle track Late Model engines in his race car. They do a LOT of gen III motor stuff.
Jan 7, 2009 | 11:21 AM
#19
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 136
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Searching out a nice set of rod to match, 6.125, .927 pin any suggestion as to the brand?
Anyone have a picture of where the pulley should be pined. I have a full machine shop at my disposal and could figure it out, just looking for a little info before I dive into it. (Machine Shop Pic below)
OH and look what came today....
lightly used intercooled for $2800...I think I did pretty good
Anyone have a picture of where the pulley should be pined. I have a full machine shop at my disposal and could figure it out, just looking for a little info before I dive into it. (Machine Shop Pic below)
OH and look what came today....
lightly used intercooled for $2800...I think I did pretty good