milling heads
#1
How much power will i get if i take my 5.3 heads off and get them rebuilt and milled .030? I dont really want to remove the heads but who knows.
I currently have these parts:
pac1218 spring
7.4" chromoly pushrods
yank 3200 stall
4.10s
I want to get the 228R .600/.600 112lsa cam.
How much will i gain by having the 706 heads worked on?
edit. i was actually going for the 224r cams but i got the stall and decided to go a little bigger.
I currently have these parts:
pac1218 spring
7.4" chromoly pushrods
yank 3200 stall
4.10s
I want to get the 228R .600/.600 112lsa cam.
How much will i gain by having the 706 heads worked on?
edit. i was actually going for the 224r cams but i got the stall and decided to go a little bigger.
#2
If you're going through the trouble of rebuilding them, may as well stick a 2.00" valve in there....or grab a set of 243/799 heads... There's a couple sets on eBay from some machine shop in Texas that are less than $300 shipped. Granted they need machining...but just a thought.
#3
Taking the heads to 58cc will get you around 10.0:1 compression. That would be worth a little bit of power, but not enough to pull them off, pay for the work, then buy all the parts to put them back on.
If you wanted to do something worth the hassle of pulling them off, have them CNC ported with larger 2.02 intake and 1.575 exhaust valves. Then mill them to around 58cc! The head work combined with the 224r ( 224/224 600/600 112+2 ) would make a nice jump in power. The 224r and a 3200 should work pretty well together, if you feel like it is sluggish down low install some 410 gears.
If you have any questions or want more information on clearance, specs, ect send me a PM
-Avery
If you wanted to do something worth the hassle of pulling them off, have them CNC ported with larger 2.02 intake and 1.575 exhaust valves. Then mill them to around 58cc! The head work combined with the 224r ( 224/224 600/600 112+2 ) would make a nice jump in power. The 224r and a 3200 should work pretty well together, if you feel like it is sluggish down low install some 410 gears.
If you have any questions or want more information on clearance, specs, ect send me a PM
-Avery
#4
Not sure what your truck configuration is but on a 5.3 I would keep it 224 and lower. The later you make your intake valve close the more dynamic compression you'll loose and on a smaller motor in a heavy truck that's gonna hurt lowend.
Pull a couple degrees intake duration and run little exhaust bias. Not sure your intake and exhaust configuration but on a 5.3 even a 220/224 112+3 would be strong. That has a 3 degree earlier IVC then the above mentioned.
Now if this is a stripped down standard can 2wd then have at it. Just my .02
Pull a couple degrees intake duration and run little exhaust bias. Not sure your intake and exhaust configuration but on a 5.3 even a 220/224 112+3 would be strong. That has a 3 degree earlier IVC then the above mentioned.
Now if this is a stripped down standard can 2wd then have at it. Just my .02
#5
Not sure what your truck configuration is but on a 5.3 I would keep it 224 and lower. The later you make your intake valve close the more dynamic compression you'll loose and on a smaller motor in a heavy truck that's gonna hurt lowend.
Pull a couple degrees intake duration and run little exhaust bias. Not sure your intake and exhaust configuration but on a 5.3 even a 220/224 112+3 would be strong. That has a 3 degree earlier IVC then the above mentioned.
Now if this is a stripped down standard can 2wd then have at it. Just my .02
Pull a couple degrees intake duration and run little exhaust bias. Not sure your intake and exhaust configuration but on a 5.3 even a 220/224 112+3 would be strong. That has a 3 degree earlier IVC then the above mentioned.
Now if this is a stripped down standard can 2wd then have at it. Just my .02






