Mild Cam or Wait?
#1
What's up everyone, need some advice.
2007 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali Classic 6.0 LQ9 AWD, getting ready to pull apart.
Currently have, going is TBSS Ported Intake 90mm Ported TB, CAI, 2" Primary Headers w/ True Dual system, MM Catch Can, 4L80 Swap Circle D 3000 Stall.
Now the question is, while I have my builder doing all this work should I pull the trigger on a cam, I do know I want to supercharge not turbo, but that's down the line. I do not know where to start with which cam or direction. I want something mild and well suited to be supercharged in the future(if possible). This is not my daily but still my weekend family hauler toy not looking for peak power.
What all will be needed for a swap what do y'all recommend? Thanks!
2007 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali Classic 6.0 LQ9 AWD, getting ready to pull apart.
Currently have, going is TBSS Ported Intake 90mm Ported TB, CAI, 2" Primary Headers w/ True Dual system, MM Catch Can, 4L80 Swap Circle D 3000 Stall.
Now the question is, while I have my builder doing all this work should I pull the trigger on a cam, I do know I want to supercharge not turbo, but that's down the line. I do not know where to start with which cam or direction. I want something mild and well suited to be supercharged in the future(if possible). This is not my daily but still my weekend family hauler toy not looking for peak power.
What all will be needed for a swap what do y'all recommend? Thanks!
#2
It would be pretty dumb not to put a cam in the engine now. The intake and header size is pretty overkill when the stock 6.0 can't really even outflow those parts as it sits. You may as well give the engine the ability to flow more air and use those parts, so install a camshaft.
Everything is stage this and stage that now, so if you picked something that they call a stage 2 camshaft that is roughly in the realm of a 212-216/218-224 size, that would be plenty good for making more power, being very mild on the street and work well with that torque converter. Something in that size range should gain you like 40hp at least and good torque on a 6.0 with other mods. Going to a larger camshaft can start to make the daily driving duty of the camshaft a little worse but many people still do it just fine.
You will need larger injectors too.
Everything is stage this and stage that now, so if you picked something that they call a stage 2 camshaft that is roughly in the realm of a 212-216/218-224 size, that would be plenty good for making more power, being very mild on the street and work well with that torque converter. Something in that size range should gain you like 40hp at least and good torque on a 6.0 with other mods. Going to a larger camshaft can start to make the daily driving duty of the camshaft a little worse but many people still do it just fine.
You will need larger injectors too.
#4
Not planning on pulling the engine, engines @ 110k and mint, off of my past experience I felt it would be fine. Rebuild with heads and cam would add up a bit more than I'm looking at currently.
I did get new higher injectors with the intake, definitely want to go the route that makes the most sense
I did get new higher injectors with the intake, definitely want to go the route that makes the most sense
#6
Blower cams aren’t much fun without a blower. I don’t even think mine will run properly without boost. There is no overlap so the normal sounds from a NA cammed motor will not happen. Boost cams sound different, just an FYI.
#7
Got an LQ9 out of an Escalade, Installed TSP 212/218 .550" Low-Lift with LS6 (maybe ? ) springs.
Easy install, stock pushrods worked. fired right up, easy to dial in the tune- runs great. Wife's daily driver, no complaints.
Runs very smooth, plenty of torque for stock converter.
I'm at the point now, that I'd replace the cam in ANYTHING that has the waterpump removed...
If you've gone to the trouble of draining the COOLANT, you might as well put a decent CAMSHAFT in.
Easy install, stock pushrods worked. fired right up, easy to dial in the tune- runs great. Wife's daily driver, no complaints.
Runs very smooth, plenty of torque for stock converter.
I'm at the point now, that I'd replace the cam in ANYTHING that has the waterpump removed...
If you've gone to the trouble of draining the COOLANT, you might as well put a decent CAMSHAFT in.
Trending Topics
#9
to an extent. for the most part, supercharging will 'enhance' the N/A power curve because it performs based on RPM. that said, i'd use cam specs to make up for deficiencies in the blowers' inherent design traits (e.g., run a higher-rpm stick with a PD blower because it makes plenty of off-idle torque but needs help up top... versus a centrifugal would benefit from a mid-RPM cam because it pushes lots of air up top but none down low). in both cases, zero or negative overlap will prevent bleeding off manifold pressure (wasting blower efficiency)... but having overlap ain't necessarily as detrimental as it would be with a turbo.
#10
but back to your original question: i'd go ahead & cam it if i was in there that far & tuning anyway. i'd also do springs, oil pump, and timing set.
honestly, unless you're shooting for 700+ whp, then 2" primaries are too much. the rest should be alright, and if you end up with a TVS blower, i'd recommend adding a 1/2" or larger plenum spacer between the case halves & make sure the lower is port-matched (some Magnuson lowers were made with little dorito-shaped intake ports to get a CARB number).
honestly, unless you're shooting for 700+ whp, then 2" primaries are too much. the rest should be alright, and if you end up with a TVS blower, i'd recommend adding a 1/2" or larger plenum spacer between the case halves & make sure the lower is port-matched (some Magnuson lowers were made with little dorito-shaped intake ports to get a CARB number).







