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LTs = burning O2 sensor

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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Default LTs = burning O2 sensor

On my truck, all 4 O2s were the same model number, so after the longtube swap, i burned out bank 1 sensor 1, so i put in one from behind the cat that was on the Y pipe still. Well about a week later, same code. Heater malfunction O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1.

do i need to plug the holes and put them further back in my system? are there any sensors i can buy that hold up to heat better.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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I had my o2 problem listed under tuning section. But Bank 2, Sensor 2 craps out after my LTs. I don't think it lasts 10000 mi, before it craps out. I wish someone would say what causes this or where to look? For you & me.

Does it matter if it's his( precat) ?
or mine(postcat)?
saying here, does that location, before or after make a difference on what could be wacking out o2 Sensors?
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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I had this problem as well when i installed my dynatechs. I basically just moved the bank 2 sensor 2 o2 up into the capped bung hole.
Remove the bolt put the o2 in it's place and use that bolt to block the orginal o2 hole.
This fixxed the heater problem for me.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:02 PM
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Interesting I think I might be having this same problem...
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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They aren't burning up, the PCM is looking for a set resistance to indicate they are hot enough. By taking them out of the typical stock exhaust set up and putting them in the header setup you are now offering them a cooler exhaust stream therefore a cooler heater which the pcm doesn't like. It doesn't like it because it is trying to keep your o2 switch points in certain boundaries.

Wrap your headers, coat your headers, go with hotter o2 sensors, or using tuning software to change (experiment) with your switching points. By the way none are guaranteed fixes. One thing is for sure, stop buying o2 sensors.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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Dewey, I only bought 1. My SES stays on now. Ceramic coated too. Even tried the cats, that was a waste of money(coated coats to deal w/ MI winters, salt & corrosion). How do I go to a "hotter" o2?

This has been bothering me for awhile, ideas good. Makes me go think. I'll give you 1 of these> You're not what I thought. A lil.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:05 PM
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My headers are already coated, pacesetters.

There is only one bung for the O2's, i am running no cats, with the pacesetter 3" ORY pipe.
and does this affect performance at all? or is it just a code popping up
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dewmanshu
They aren't burning up, the PCM is looking for a set resistance to indicate they are hot enough. By taking them out of the typical stock exhaust set up and putting them in the header setup you are now offering them a cooler exhaust stream therefore a cooler heater which the pcm doesn't like. It doesn't like it because it is trying to keep your o2 switch points in certain boundaries.

Wrap your headers, coat your headers, go with hotter o2 sensors, or using tuning software to change (experiment) with your switching points. By the way none are guaranteed fixes. One thing is for sure, stop buying o2 sensors.
This is why i moved my bank 2 rear sensor forward. It keeps it alot warmer than being in the back and i did that over 2 years ago and have not burnt up another o2 sensor since then.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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my pacesetters are coated too...
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TouchOfEvil04
This is why i moved my bank 2 rear sensor forward. It keeps it alot warmer than being in the back and i did that over 2 years ago and have not burnt up another o2 sensor since then.
i dont even have a rear sensor though. its my front drivers side thats doing it
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