vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

What springs are you running, I think the Beehive springs tend to be noisier.

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

LS6 springs with the infamous hotcam.

You know on the way home I was driving it pretty hard. I didn't let it warm up before I started beating it up. It ran flawless!!! Then once it got up to temperature it started doing the same old thing again.
Here's some data:
RPM Adv. KR
5010 23 7.6
5142 23.5 7.6
5214 23.5 8
5313 24 7.8
5355 24 7.8
5423 25.5 7.7
5576 18.5 8
5490 25.5 7.8
5886 23 7.7
5806 26 7.6
5963 27 7.6
6025 15.5 7.4

Notice how the rpms go up, and then down and back up. I'm willing to bet that's from it breaking up. It's programed to shift at 6400rpm, but I had to back out before then. What do you think of this? Plug wires? False knock? Too much timing? If you add the advance to the amount of KR, it's not at all too much timing for 91 octane. WTF is setting these stupid things off?!?

02sierraz71_5.3

iTrader: (2)

put in 110 if you still have kr you know its not real, with that much you could pull a plug also and see signs if it was real. The timing doesnt look that high but you could also pull some and see if it goes away. Dont believe the stock 02's for wot fueling.

Have you always had this problem or did it just start?

also if you could post up your entire tune zip it and attach

99Silver6.0

iTrader: (1)

FALSE FALSE FALSE FALSE. The 99 and 2000 PCM's sucked ***. I fought that flase KR battle for 4 months before I just took out the 99 PCM for an 02. Tried changing knock retard threshold, didnt work. Tried some resistors in line with each sensor to desensitize them, worked for like a week..... That aside, my truck never ran so good after that PCM swap.

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

I'd love to do that, but this is from a mail order tuner that wouldn't enjoy that very much.

This problem came about when I got TM removed completely. It had to take a back seat though because I had bigger issues trying to diagnose my clogged cats. Now that I have that solved I can concentrate on this.

Anyway why would this problem seem to be engine temperature induced? Do the knock sensors kick in when the engine reaches a certain temp? The converter is locked at WOT could that be causing the problem? I think I'll be looking into an 02 PCM.

Are you saying that even though you swapped to an 02, it still doesn't run right?

99Silver6.0

iTrader: (1)

Oh hell no. Swapping to the 02 solved my KR problems completely! Ran dam good!

02sierraz71_5.3

iTrader: (2)

Id put the TM back in and see what happens.

We dont have to know the tuners name seeing the tune would help. What software are you using? knock sensors operate regardless of operating temp knock learn is effected by temp though. How do you know your cats are clogged?

Okie5.3

iTrader: (1)

what spark plugs are you running? a projected tip plug, especially platinum, is prone to hold more heat which can contribute to deonation. engine temp can be a cause of detonation. more heat=more power to a certain extent. the higher the engine temp the hotter the combustion chambers will be, which could also contribute to detonation. FWIW.

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

A quick search on here would reveal what tuner I'm using, so I don't want to go there. I could PM or email you the tune or logging file if you like. This was all done the HPT.

Could you elaborate more on knock learn and how temp. affects it?

As for my cats:
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...highlight=cats

I had the factory platinums in there. They seemed to be all gapped at .100", so I re-gapped them to .060". No luck. I threw some TR6's in there to try a colder plug, gapped at 0.035" and same ****, different day.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

well seens how it did not do it when cold maybe you need more pe. Is it lean?

It would be definatly worth it to swap to a newer pcm though.