now to mount the pulley to the bracket i used a stud setup but it can be done a number of ways
i just used an old pilot bearing as a secondary spacer.

 

now with the idler out of the way you can start on the water pump problem. There is a few ways to do this as well i have an f-body pump so i choose that route, but if you have a 04 or earlier truck pump you will have both outlet bosses on the pump, so you can plug the top(truck) outlet and drill out the front(car) outlet. But i choose to use an f-body pump and swap pulleys. now after murdering the f-body pulley to get it off. then pulling the truck pulley, wich came off relatively easy and pressing it on the f-body pump i had the water pump situation under control

f-body pulley after removal


f-body pump minus pully


turck pump


and what it all looks like together idler moved and pump outlet changed

 

and heres a pic of the pump to throttle body clearance

one thing i did forget to mention is the coolant crossover tube has to be bent down a little cause it hits the bottom of the throttle body

 

Very nice write-up!

 

nice pics and details . . . what are you using for the 90mm TB . . Dr. X harness or something else ?

 

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scoggin dickey sent a harness adapter with the top end cant remember the price i wana say it was 180, but ill have pics up tomorrow i forgot my camera at the shop

 

alright heres the TRP X-Link 2.1 mounted to a bracket i made and the map sensor extended and ran through the injector loom to the front of the motor

And for the trp x-link it comes in the instructions but they are kind of unclear, if you have car manifoild cut the pink loops and insulate them. I just put some heat srink tubing over the ends of the pink loops after i cut them. if you have the truck intake leave the pink loops alone. The pink loops im talking about are on both ends of the harness in the black protective loom

 

and as for the fuel rail crossover tube inlet, i just bent it back a little cause i did not want to cut the inlet and make a new fitting for the inlet to be parallel to the motor, cause i didnt want to put extra stress on the solder joint on the crossover tube.

 

and the air fillter a k&n re-0870 and a 4'' to 4'' rubber pvc union from home depot, i think it looks pretty good and it was cheap. $40 for the filter and $3 for the union

 

now on to the twin disc, i know almost all of you guys are auto, but for the small fraction of us who like 3 pedals heres my pics and install of a mcleod twin disc clutch.

well if you dont have a new billet flywheel from mcleod you will have to get a stock ls1 flywheel, because the inside diameter of the truck flywheel is too large. so once you have a new or newly machined ls1 flywheel you can bolt it up to torque spec and install a new pilot bearing.

now in the mcleod box there is the clutch assembly and the second disc, first thing to do is unbolt the pressure plate from the floater ring. then grab the second disc labled bottom, and the floater ring and place the bottom disc inside the floater assembly with the flywheel lable twords the flywheel and bolt the ring up with the stock pressure plate bolts. leave the the ring bolts sung so the flywheel side disc can still move around. then grab the first disc and the alignment tool , and align the discs with the pilot. and with the alignment tool still in place bolt the pressure plate on and torque it down in a star pattern