I'm mid 5.3 to 6.0 swap and need a little help!
05-21-2011, 09:16 PM
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I'm mid 5.3 to 6.0 swap and need a little help!
Hey guys, started today to do my 5.3 to 6.0 swap. I'm going 2001 5.3 to 2001 LQ4 out of a 2500.
I had read many posts about this swap but came up with some issues I hadn't read about and hope to have some answers.
1)What do you guys do about the non brake vacumn port on the back of the intake. When pulling the 5.3 out the inner part of that piece ?broke? or
?pulled? out. I see this metal looking ring inside the intake port on the 5.3 but tried to pry out the 6.0 unit and only the closed end piece pulled out. Weird looking thing, but basically can I install the open piece from the 5.3 into 6.0 part or do I need to try and pull out the whole 6.0 unit and replace with the whole 5.3. I know this sounds confusing, but if you understand what I mean please chime in. I'm thinking just change the closed end nipple for the open one out of the 5.3.
2)The engine was a BAS**RD to pull. Honestly nobody's write ups ever mentioned we'd be fighting that hard to pull it out. Between the pan contacting the crossmember, the intake rubbing the firewall or cowl and the waterpump pulley trying to bust through the rad (luckily I had a nice piece of plywood protecting this part) it was TOUGH(also my first engine R&R but NOT my mechanics first). We finally dropped the engine back down a bit and removed waterpump to gain clearance. So after getting it pulled we noticed the crossmember could be unbolted near the drop in the oil pan we struggled with so much. SO does anyone remove this crossmember to ease the removal/install. My mechanic is convinced we are going to remove it tomorrow to ease install of the 6.0. Please let me know if this is ok, I have never seen another swap done this way, but it does seem way easier.
3)I bought new Pacesetter headers. Anything I need to know about the install. Originally I was going to lay them in the engine bay while dropping the engine back in but with so little room to play dropping the engine down they will be installed after the engine and tranny have been bolted back together. Can both sides install from the top or does one side need to go in from the bottom.
PROPS to my mechanic buddy. The dipstick broke inside the block on my 6.0 when removing the manifolds and I felt dejected. He suggested a couple of different fixes, and after thinning the stuck dipstick with a drill caked in grease, torching the area around it and tapping the stuck piece around it pulled right out!!!
I had read many posts about this swap but came up with some issues I hadn't read about and hope to have some answers.
1)What do you guys do about the non brake vacumn port on the back of the intake. When pulling the 5.3 out the inner part of that piece ?broke? or
?pulled? out. I see this metal looking ring inside the intake port on the 5.3 but tried to pry out the 6.0 unit and only the closed end piece pulled out. Weird looking thing, but basically can I install the open piece from the 5.3 into 6.0 part or do I need to try and pull out the whole 6.0 unit and replace with the whole 5.3. I know this sounds confusing, but if you understand what I mean please chime in. I'm thinking just change the closed end nipple for the open one out of the 5.3.
2)The engine was a BAS**RD to pull. Honestly nobody's write ups ever mentioned we'd be fighting that hard to pull it out. Between the pan contacting the crossmember, the intake rubbing the firewall or cowl and the waterpump pulley trying to bust through the rad (luckily I had a nice piece of plywood protecting this part) it was TOUGH(also my first engine R&R but NOT my mechanics first). We finally dropped the engine back down a bit and removed waterpump to gain clearance. So after getting it pulled we noticed the crossmember could be unbolted near the drop in the oil pan we struggled with so much. SO does anyone remove this crossmember to ease the removal/install. My mechanic is convinced we are going to remove it tomorrow to ease install of the 6.0. Please let me know if this is ok, I have never seen another swap done this way, but it does seem way easier.
3)I bought new Pacesetter headers. Anything I need to know about the install. Originally I was going to lay them in the engine bay while dropping the engine back in but with so little room to play dropping the engine down they will be installed after the engine and tranny have been bolted back together. Can both sides install from the top or does one side need to go in from the bottom.
PROPS to my mechanic buddy. The dipstick broke inside the block on my 6.0 when removing the manifolds and I felt dejected. He suggested a couple of different fixes, and after thinning the stuck dipstick with a drill caked in grease, torching the area around it and tapping the stuck piece around it pulled right out!!!
05-21-2011, 10:24 PM
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I've done 3 5.3 to 6.0 swaps now, and we've always removed the accessories: intake, a/c, water pump, power steering. We pulled them off of the original motor, but left them hooked up to their hoses and just wire tied them out of the way. The motor comes out easy then, and the new one goes back in no problems.
05-21-2011, 10:35 PM
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1. Remove the nipple from the back of the 5.3 intake and put it on the 6.0 intake...I believe they are the same intake anyway. To get it out, push the ring back all the way and pull the fitting out at the same time...takes some fidgeting but itll come out.
2. I always take the front accessories and intake off...the waterpump is 6-10mm bolts, and the alternator/ps pump bracket is 4 15mm bolts. Intake is 10-8mm bolts, couple sensors, and the fuel line, pretty easy.
The driver side header is very easy to get in if the steering shaft is out....the passenger side is a bitch either way because of the EGR fitting.
2. I always take the front accessories and intake off...the waterpump is 6-10mm bolts, and the alternator/ps pump bracket is 4 15mm bolts. Intake is 10-8mm bolts, couple sensors, and the fuel line, pretty easy.
The driver side header is very easy to get in if the steering shaft is out....the passenger side is a bitch either way because of the EGR fitting.
05-21-2011, 11:39 PM
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Thanks guys!!
I think he pulled out the 6.0 plug the way you described by pushing and pulling. I had tried yanking and prying obviously the wrong way to pull the whole thing out instead of just the plug or tube section. Whoops!
All the accessories are off to the side and we removed the waterpump but it is the entire clearance of the engine with balancer installed between the front rad area and the firewall that is a squeeze. Thinking out loud that the balancer maybe should also be removed. For sure twisting it out a bit helped, but I never thought it was going to be that tough. You'd think a truck engine bay would be more friendly due to its size. Anyways does anyone remove the lower crossmember near the rear of the pan that pretty much prevents the engine for going forward in the bay and up and out. It is removable and is soo much in the way it seems to be a good idea. Not sure why no one does it?
Keep any hints coming guys, hopefully tomorrow night I have a runner and if not at the very latest Monday.
I think he pulled out the 6.0 plug the way you described by pushing and pulling. I had tried yanking and prying obviously the wrong way to pull the whole thing out instead of just the plug or tube section. Whoops!
All the accessories are off to the side and we removed the waterpump but it is the entire clearance of the engine with balancer installed between the front rad area and the firewall that is a squeeze. Thinking out loud that the balancer maybe should also be removed. For sure twisting it out a bit helped, but I never thought it was going to be that tough. You'd think a truck engine bay would be more friendly due to its size. Anyways does anyone remove the lower crossmember near the rear of the pan that pretty much prevents the engine for going forward in the bay and up and out. It is removable and is soo much in the way it seems to be a good idea. Not sure why no one does it?
Keep any hints coming guys, hopefully tomorrow night I have a runner and if not at the very latest Monday.
05-22-2011, 07:27 AM
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No we removed the hood completely.
I'm up and out to finish this job hopefully. I'll check back in on my mechanics computer later if anyone has any tips on that crossmember removal, but I bet you it will be out by then.
Wish us luck!
I'm up and out to finish this job hopefully. I'll check back in on my mechanics computer later if anyone has any tips on that crossmember removal, but I bet you it will be out by then.
Wish us luck!
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05-22-2011, 11:11 PM
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Drove the truck home tonight. Things went very well today. Some tips I will share for anyone wanting to do this and make things much easier. While it may take a little more time in the beginning it pays off i the long run! Just suggestions, your results may vary.
1) Remove the bolted crossmember in front of the oil pan, the one the pan rests on if you remove the tranny crossmember and lower the tranny/engine to access bellhousinfg bolts. Takes 1 minute makes life WAY easier.
2) Remove everything from the front including the balancer, you need to come right close to the rad(we protected the rad with a thin sheet of plywood).
3) Pay very close attention to everything going on behind the engine. Not only are there at least two grounds and several connections, it always wants to break sensors and stuff as it comes up or goes down around the cowl area. Taking the intake off here may be easier, maybe one day I'll try it without.
4)Extend your engine hoist out far so you wont be scratching it on your front bumper.
Good luck! Thanks for the responses.
1) Remove the bolted crossmember in front of the oil pan, the one the pan rests on if you remove the tranny crossmember and lower the tranny/engine to access bellhousinfg bolts. Takes 1 minute makes life WAY easier.
2) Remove everything from the front including the balancer, you need to come right close to the rad(we protected the rad with a thin sheet of plywood).
3) Pay very close attention to everything going on behind the engine. Not only are there at least two grounds and several connections, it always wants to break sensors and stuff as it comes up or goes down around the cowl area. Taking the intake off here may be easier, maybe one day I'll try it without.
4)Extend your engine hoist out far so you wont be scratching it on your front bumper.
Good luck! Thanks for the responses.