How do you get the damn seal for the crank pulley off - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums



GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

How do you get the damn seal for the crank pulley off

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-05-2005, 10:53 PM   #1
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
Thread Starter
iTrader: (36)
 
1slow01Z71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 23,200
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default How do you get the damn seal for the crank pulley off

Im cleanign up some of the parts that I took of my 5.3 cause Im going to paint them and make them look nice before they go on the 418 and the damn seal that is on the timing chain cover that seals against the crank pulley will NOT come off. I had a pair of channel locks on it and and used a screw driver and it still will not come off. Do you just have to rip it off?
1slow01Z71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2005, 11:08 PM   #2
what a rush!
iTrader: (8)
 
moregrip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 17,441
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

BFH!!
moregrip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2005, 11:11 PM   #3
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
TurboGibbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Decatur, AL
Posts: 5,256
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I've got a seal removal tool in the bottom drawer of my tool box. Yeah, you usually just rip them out. That is what the tool is for. I think it has an orange handle.
TurboGibbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2005, 11:12 PM   #4
what a rush!
iTrader: (8)
 
moregrip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 17,441
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

seriously though, you can use a punch and a ball peen, don't knick anything up though, it takes a few good thwacks
moregrip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2005, 12:54 AM   #5
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Flyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Armpit of East TX
Posts: 9,343
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Screwdriver and a hammer. Works wonders. Gotta work a-round the seal, not just in one spot.
Flyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2005, 10:06 PM   #6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: WI
Posts: 2,247
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Make sure you hit it from the correct side or you'll take out the small metal lip designed to hold the seal in place. Don't ask me how I know.
Zick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2005, 11:19 PM   #7
what a rush!
iTrader: (8)
 
moregrip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 17,441
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zick
Make sure you hit it from the correct side or you'll take out the small metal lip designed to hold the seal in place. Don't ask me how I know.
lmfao! thanks for that
moregrip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2005, 10:44 AM   #8
Need More N2O Mod
 
mwalls54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Not in Koonerville MD anymore
Posts: 4,333
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

yeah a few good hits from the inside part and you should be good to go.
mwalls54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2005, 03:49 PM   #9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: In the Sticks of Virginia
Posts: 2,267
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default hERE

Crankshaft Balancer Replacement

Tools Required


J 41816 Crankshaft Balancer Remover

J 41816-2 Crankshaft End Protector

J 42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool

J 41665 Crankshaft Balancer and Sprocket Installer

J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Removal Procedure
Remove the air conditioning (A/C) drive belt, if equipped. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement - Air Conditioning .
Remove the accessory drive belt, if not equipped with A/C. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement - Air Conditioning .
Remove the fan shroud - lower. Refer to Fan Shroud Replacement - Lower in Engine Cooling.
Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.



Important:

Make sure that the teeth of the J 42386-A mesh with the teeth of the engine flywheel.

The crankshaft balancer is balanced as an individual component. It is not necessary to mark the balancer prior to removal.


Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the J 42386-A and bolts. Use one M10-1.5 x 120 mm and one M10-1.5 x 45 mm bolt for proper tool operation.

Tighten
Tighten the J 42386-A bolts to 50 Nm (37 lb ft).





Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt. Do not discard the crankshaft balancer bolt. The balancer bolt will be used during the balancer installation procedure.



Use the J 41816 and J 41816-2 in order to remove the crankshaft balancer.
Remove the J 41816 and the J 41816-2 from the crankshaft balancer.
Clean and inspect the crankshaft balancer. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer Cleaning and Inspection in Engine Mechanical - 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L Unit Repair.
Installation Procedure
Important:

Make sure that the teeth of J 42386-A mesh with the teeth of the engine flywheel.

The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used only during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and forth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.

The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and forth passes tighten the new bolt to the proper torque.


Important: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.






Install the crankshaft balancer onto the end of the crankshaft.



Use the J 41665 in order to install the crankshaft balancer.
Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool. Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.
Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
Remove the balancer installation tool.




Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt.

Tighten
Tighten the USED crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 Nm (240 lb ft).

Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt.
Important: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.


Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure.
Install a NEW crankshaft balancer bolt.

Tighten

Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 Nm (37 lb ft).
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using J 36660-A .
Remove the J 42386-A and bolts.
Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Install the fan shroud - lower. Refer to Fan Shroud Replacement - Lower in Engine Cooling.
Install the accessory drive belt (if not equipped with A/C). Refer to Drive Belt Replacement - Accessory .
Install the A/C drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Drive Belt Replacement - Air Conditioning .
Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to CKP System Variation Learn Procedure in Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L.
Torque_Wrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2005, 03:54 PM   #10
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
StrokerAce03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,844
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by moregrip
BFH!!


So if all else fails, get a bigger hammer? Looks like Torque Wrench pretty much covered it though; pretty much what the shop manual says.
StrokerAce03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ls2??? mikeyjm1 GM Engine & Exhaust Performance 17 10-29-2015 11:04 PM
Walbro 450 in a Stock Avalanche Bucket Chavette FUEL SYSTEMS 25 10-28-2015 07:33 PM
02 Avalanche 5.3 to LS1 or LQ4. Is it a direct swap? FormulaZR GM Engine & Exhaust Performance 1 09-14-2015 05:23 PM
Procharged H/C Denali - HELP Justin87gn FORCED INDUCTION 9 09-10-2015 12:06 PM
P1sc output seal help! fctry286 FORCED INDUCTION 0 09-05-2015 11:48 AM


Tags
2003, 418162, 42386a, 57, crank, flywheel, hemi, holding, j41816, j418162, j41816a, j42386a, ls1, pull, pully, tool

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:46 AM.


 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
What's your question?
Send