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Heads, New Cam, and Intake install on my 4.8

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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 03:12 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
If the cam is installed dot to dot and the cam was cam doctor'd, I don't see why you'd need to degree it.
It doesn't make a difference if the cam is accurate (which they usually are). Where the problem typically lies is in the timing chain (sloppy) or the chain isn't matched to the gear set (even GM ones aren't). GM intentionally makes the chains sloppy so robots can install the timing chain sets. There are too many other variables other than the cam to assume the valve timing is correct. Also with the slack in the stock timing chains, your valve timing will change upon acceleration and decelleration. This "LASH" that occurs is hard on lifters, pushrods, rockers and valves.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 03:14 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
I am about 99% sure i will be replacing the chain, and getting a degree wheel, i have always wanted to learn how to use one! And my cam being 108 LSA might be tempermental to say the least...
Corey, I'm going to try and get everything of mine installed this weekend. If you want, you can borrow my comp degree wheel and dial indicator. I'll let you know how easy it is to degree the cam in while the engine is in the truck
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #143  
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so all in all, it is useless to degree a cam when reinstalling the stock timing set, right? I am with you guys on degreeing a cam with an adjustable timing set, I think I am going double roller next cam just for a piece of mind. is the set your putting on a double or single, hirdlej?
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #144  
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Pretty much, but you should still degree with a stock set so that if it's too far off you can stop there and correct it with a proper timing chain set.

Also fasrt, the set I'm using is a progear adjustable single. No shimming of the oil pump is needed
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #145  
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lookin good there corey! cant wait to see your results. if you dont mind me askin which defense contractor do you work for? im a manufacturing engineer at a shop so i may be making your parts haha
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:04 PM
  #146  
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Good luck with it,should run pretty good.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:06 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by schino
lookin good there corey! cant wait to see your results. if you dont mind me askin which defense contractor do you work for? im a manufacturing engineer at a shop so i may be making your parts haha
Lockheed Martin Aero! Our products work about 50% of the time but cost twice as much!

Originally Posted by Wheatley
Good luck with it,should run pretty good.
Thanks man!
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #148  
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IT RUNS!!!

I just finished up! I took it for a little drive, name i gotta do some tuning to it... But it runs rather well, even untuned.... It feels like it added a decent amount of TQ in the midrange, i got a little tire spin at about 1/2 throttle and the exhaust sounds alot deeper!! I have my shift points at 6600 with tow haul and it felt like it was still pulling. Oh and the verter feels looser tooo. Maybe it is just that i have not driven it since sunday and i have been sporting the beater, but i like it!!!

I am going to go take a shower and eat then I am going to start tuning... I will be sure to post up some new speedo vids too!

but for the time being this idle vid will have to do, sorry about the crappy quality, it is the only camera i have ... Vid starts out with the cutout closed, then i open it, the i close it back...

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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 06:05 PM
  #149  
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sounds like the increased compression made it alot more choppy. you can really hear that valve train bangin around in there. sounds awesome. NOW SPEEDO!!
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #150  
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ya, the valvetrain got louder ... But even untuned it still drives pretty good, maybe it just needs a little tweeking... I will get the vids up after i am done, and i will get some DD vids so you can see how the loose the verter is... It just went at got some gas and at part throttle it hits 4000 ...
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