Got money, need advice....
#13
how well do those FLP's fit?
besides making good HP do they fit with no clearance problems and such?
that would be a criteria for me, I would give up a few HP for a real good fit.
I'm sorta on the fence about changing out my exhaust every two years to pass smog, I need to think that one over a bit before I make a descision.
thanks guys
keep'em coming
besides making good HP do they fit with no clearance problems and such?
that would be a criteria for me, I would give up a few HP for a real good fit.
I'm sorta on the fence about changing out my exhaust every two years to pass smog, I need to think that one over a bit before I make a descision.
thanks guys
keep'em coming
#14
Also, a supercharger isn't out of the question, I'm just not sure if thats the route I'd like to take.
For instance HP and TQ wise what can I expect from an intake,PCM,exhaust,headers on my 6.0? maybe include a cam too for comparison sake.
then compared to a radix setup(which would include the exhaust and PCM as well)
now whats the verdict?
Another big factor is I need this to be nearly as reliable as stock.
For instance HP and TQ wise what can I expect from an intake,PCM,exhaust,headers on my 6.0? maybe include a cam too for comparison sake.
then compared to a radix setup(which would include the exhaust and PCM as well)
now whats the verdict?
Another big factor is I need this to be nearly as reliable as stock.
#15
Dunno why you don't want to discuss your budget as that helps people give advice to you...but that's your thing. If it's $500-800 there's a lot you can do and a lot you can't.
Catbacks aren't worth a whole lot nor are air intakes. I'd skip those for now if you are on a severe budget for just a PCM tune. That'll make a bigger difference than the catback and air intake ever could on your application N/A.
Once you're tuned, then I'd do some headers. Big gains all over. I believe Doug Thorley now has a set for the 6.0 trucks with the factory true duals into the single muffler. I believe they can be had for about $450.
Now perhaps the air intake and catback.
After that, you're right on with a stall converter and shift kit. You'll launch harder and shift better. A nice mild cam would really help you out in the mid range and keep your low end power also. Around a 214/220 .520/.540 114LSA would be docile and keep the stock powerband and then some.
Catbacks aren't worth a whole lot nor are air intakes. I'd skip those for now if you are on a severe budget for just a PCM tune. That'll make a bigger difference than the catback and air intake ever could on your application N/A.
Once you're tuned, then I'd do some headers. Big gains all over. I believe Doug Thorley now has a set for the 6.0 trucks with the factory true duals into the single muffler. I believe they can be had for about $450.
Now perhaps the air intake and catback.
After that, you're right on with a stall converter and shift kit. You'll launch harder and shift better. A nice mild cam would really help you out in the mid range and keep your low end power also. Around a 214/220 .520/.540 114LSA would be docile and keep the stock powerband and then some.
#17
my total budget is 12K
but that has to include rims/tires and some other visuals.
realistic powertrain budget 6-8K for reliable power.
I guess it does make sense to have a budget range to work with....
thanks, I see the light.
but that has to include rims/tires and some other visuals.
realistic powertrain budget 6-8K for reliable power.
I guess it does make sense to have a budget range to work with....
thanks, I see the light.
#19
TOGs are the only CARB legal LT (mid-length) headers here in CA.
I've very happy with mine. They look and fit like they are going to last forever. I had a small clearance problem on the driver's side with the steering shaft. I had to remove the nut-locking device and just go with a basic bolt. But i didnt throw a code. Remeber to get them coated!
I agree with whitt1 - go with a radix.
I've very happy with mine. They look and fit like they are going to last forever. I had a small clearance problem on the driver's side with the steering shaft. I had to remove the nut-locking device and just go with a basic bolt. But i didnt throw a code. Remeber to get them coated!

I agree with whitt1 - go with a radix.






