Fuel Pump replace (quickest/cheapest)
#11
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I removed the bed. 8 bolts for the bed, two small bolts and a plastic clip for the fuel filler, and a few wiring connectors... Get a strong buddy to help you lift it back a couple feet and that's it.
Cutting a hole would be easy though, as long as you make a nice plate to cover it back up.
Cutting a hole would be easy though, as long as you make a nice plate to cover it back up.
#12
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I have a working factory pump that i just removed when i install a bigger fuel pump. it is in perfect working condition. Let me know i will let it go cheap. It came off my 2000 silverado.
#13
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If the pump fails with a full tank of gas, pull the bed, if the tank's almost empty, drop the tank lol. I've usually dropped the tank, especially when working on a lift with a trans jack or an extra hand, but the bed is easy if you have a way to lift it. I think it was spoolin who used an engine hoist and some straps attached to the 4 eyelets in the corners of the bed, I thought that was a pretty trick method I may try pulling the bed on mine when my pump fails (noticed I said "when" and not "if" )
#14
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I removed the bed. 8 bolts for the bed, two small bolts and a plastic clip for the fuel filler, and a few wiring connectors... Get a strong buddy to help you lift it back a couple feet and that's it.
Cutting a hole would be easy though, as long as you make a nice plate to cover it back up.
Cutting a hole would be easy though, as long as you make a nice plate to cover it back up.
#15
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All the trucks have EVAP emissions. There are slight differences in years and Federal / California certified trucks. If you don't have a lift it may be easier to remove the bed.
#16
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It will throw some SES code cant remember the #. I had the code tuned out of mine cause i bought a fuel pump without evap sensors. Anyway just take the bed off. Just a few bolts and set it off. No big deal.
#17
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yea i ended taking off the bed. removed it but now i wish i would just slid back instead of completely pulling off. no biggie. waiting on pump now.
anybody running walbro in place of stocker?
i have 450 ls1 on stand ive always wanted to drop in
anybody running walbro in place of stocker?
i have 450 ls1 on stand ive always wanted to drop in
#18
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there will be a canister (cylinderish thing) hanging on the back off the tank near the axle if you have evap.
i dropped the trank when it was about half full and im about 260 and bench near 400 and ill just tell you that job friggin sucked. if it was empty it wouldnt have been as bad, but it still sucked. if you have a couple (or 3) friend that can help you take the bed off then its just like 6 bed bolts, disconnect the tailight harness, and filler hose and the bed comes right off.
i dropped the trank when it was about half full and im about 260 and bench near 400 and ill just tell you that job friggin sucked. if it was empty it wouldnt have been as bad, but it still sucked. if you have a couple (or 3) friend that can help you take the bed off then its just like 6 bed bolts, disconnect the tailight harness, and filler hose and the bed comes right off.
driving my ss for now, last time i drove was back in january. working long hours and wkends never have time for it as much.
#19
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pump harness info!
got running with ebay pump.
word of advise if using ebay or parts house pumps:
these pumps come a with a inline connector harness for pump and float level that does not plug into the stock connector.
i did not have to splice the new connector into the stock harness, i instead disassembled the original pump connector and pulled the stock wiring and transfered to the new pump. the connectors have the same locators. so this means splicing the new connector to the pump housing is not necessary.
just a heads up. the auto parts also sell these pumps with new connectors.
word of advise if using ebay or parts house pumps:
these pumps come a with a inline connector harness for pump and float level that does not plug into the stock connector.
i did not have to splice the new connector into the stock harness, i instead disassembled the original pump connector and pulled the stock wiring and transfered to the new pump. the connectors have the same locators. so this means splicing the new connector to the pump housing is not necessary.
just a heads up. the auto parts also sell these pumps with new connectors.
#20
Remove the bed bolts on the drivers side (only 4) and loosen the ones on the pass side (again 4 bolts) unbolt the fuel tube and jack the drivers side of the bed up there is plenty of room to get the pump out. As for the pump if you plan on any performance mods get a walboro 255 if not get the $50 rebuild kit off ebay i've been runing one for about 6 months now and haven't had the first problem out of it.