so i was fooling around and just started to trust the transmission under the new amount of power enough to WOT it and everything and i was very surprised to find out that with my cam (see sig) the tuner decided to set the shift point at 6000 rpms. it felt real strong and i was waiting to hear it scream on up to like 6700 but it shifted....i didnt go from a zero dig but a 5mph roll but i dont think it would change things. i just emailed him and asked why because i have been under them impression that this cams power range went up through 6600 for an LS1. i gave him eht ebenefit of the doubt and asked if it was because i didnt have LT's and couldnt flow THAT much exhaust yet but i have to say...why?

 

yeah that one looks like a revver. even without longtubes i think you could go to atleast 6400...hell im at 6200 on a stock cam

 

thats exactly what i was thinking. this might just prompt me to tune myself or make small adjustments to it. he did do a good job, john at advanced racing dynamics, off highway 6 near clay. it idles great even with the a/c on and everything is crispy i guess thats why it took me so long to notice or check because everything else seemed to be in order. i hate spending 600$ on a cd and a cable for HPtuners or whatever...

 

$500, but I see you're point. Aside from that, it's nice to be able to do your own logs & tunes. Plus, if you have any concerns, take the logs, and email to the tuner. Given log data, they can make (or suggest) adjustments to correct any issues.

I used to have your train of thought, but man, it's good to have the ability to DIY, especially if you want to learn more about tuning.

 

With no tuning/logging software, how do you know the RPM you are shifting at? I shift at 6300 rpm and it looks like 6k b/c that is all the factory tach reads.

 

Yeah, that's right, huh! How come the tach in my GF's Envoy (straight 6) tach's to 7000!!!???

 

I think he's assuming the gauges are correct and it's shifting as soon as it gets to 6,000, which is a fine assumption...

problem with bringing that motor to 6700 or so rpms is that it won't last, you need at a minimum new rod bolts such as the ARP or Katech sets in order to keep from launching a rod through the side of the block and a piston into the head. You have the valvetrain, but you still have a wink link in the lower end, take care of that and move on to the next problem

 

many people including litredevil or v8 or whatever spun to 7k. as long as its not all the time you should be alright. but i know what you mean though and nick you are right its shifting just as it hits 6k but i emailed my tuner and he said that i make peak power below 6000 so thats why he put that on their the way he did but i think once i get my LT's and ORY im gonna have him delete the rear 02's, MAYBE set up a wide band LC-1, but definitly redyno and make a few tuning adjustments because with the HORRIBLE restriction that i have with stock manifolds and cats with 228 exhaust duration i should pick up at least 30rwhp/tq from the LT's so that will probably bump up my peak power rpms a few hundred. also to net higher ET's ill have himj retune no matter what to at least 6400 so when it shifts up ill be at a happier place in the power band BUT regardless when it did shift at 6k it still felt very fast and moved on right through the rpms. ill jsut have to wait until LT's to get the other matters taken care of. yea im interested in tuning and have been paying attention to when people talk about what they did and logging and stuff and i understand what stuff to do i would just have to familiarize myself with the software so i will buy it down the line but i wanna get the other stuff out of the way. basically the LT's, pulley and fuel pump. then ill fool around with my own tuning. sorry for the long post

 

Yeah, seems a bit early. I know the truck intake is a restriction but, holding it out just a tad longer would probably help.

One thing about my truck (what I'm finding out), is that the shift points are based off of MPH and RPM... Almost a meeting ground. If something isn't set correctly, my truck wont even shift. Tried fooling around with this in a F-body by setting the MPH to 0 so it was purely based off of RPM and it again, would not shift. WEIRD

May not be as much of his fault as it seems... Well, I'm done making excuses for this guy.

 

i stand behind his decision because it preforms well and i understand that for plain street application why set the shift point so much after its peak power. im by no means condemning him for his decision though. after the lt's im gonna redyno and mess with some things with him