Ok, most generally when a torque converter is rated at 3000rpm stall, the vehicle remains at a neutral position, not gear wise mind you, until you reach that determined stall speed then the vehicle launches. Since this is generally the case why is it that people claim a Yank TT3000 will operate nearly like stock before the 3000rpm lockup and roll as soon as you let off the brake pedal? Something doesn't add up for me unless Yank is doing something that all the other torque converter manufactures aren't doing. The more I think of it the more I don't want my truck banging to 3000rpm and launching. Keep in mind I've never been to a dragstrip and possibly never will. I'm not after that elusive ET but I'm really looking at GM's higher stall converter. I've been told by two trusted transmission specialists that the 3000 is way to high for my needs and that the GM unit would suit me better. The GM unit's stall is something just shy of 2000 which is about were my truck starts to pull.

 

If there is one things I have learned in the last 10 years of modding new cars is never to listen to damn service techs. Most of them wouldnt know performance if it walked up and kicked em in the face.

Ok to answer your question. A stall converter does no trequire you to hit 3000rpm before the car will move. If you give it a a lil bit of throttle you will pull away from a dead stop just like normal but with a lil bit of slip, kinda like slippin a clutch a tiny bit depending on the size of the stall. If you FLOOR it then yes, the converter will FLASH to near 3000rpm and you will launch like a ****!!

The way I read your post it seems like you feel that you need to hit 3000rpm everytime you try to move the truck form a dead stop. Thats most definately not the case. I know for a fact that a 3000rpm converter in an F-bod barely feels different than stock till you hammer it.

As far as never going to the track that is cool, a converter is no tjust a track mod. Anytime you want to pull away from someone from a dead stop of low mph roll a converter is gonna work wonders.

I have been through at least 5 diff. converters between my Mustang and T/A and the only one I had reservations recommending for street use is my current 4400rpm stall, even this monster will idle from a light and will get moving before 2500rpm.

What alot of old school muscle car guys dont realize is that the new LS1 based motors make power and TQ up high in the RPM band and therefore need a higher stall converter to be effective. Most of them freak out when they found out I had a 3800rpm stall in my car when it was stock but the ETs dont lie. hell some guys run the 4400 stall in their stockish cars and bust out great ETs and 60's.

 

I run a Yank 3000 and the only time it spins to 3000rpm to launch is on a full throttle takeoff.Under normal driving conditions it stalls slightly more than stock.Yes it noticable but not to the point that the convertor feels loose, you don't feel any slipage.

 

That's really not how a converter works. The motor just doesn't go to 3000rpm and the truck launches under normal driving. You will see a few more rpms when you start off from a stop but, you don't have to hit 3000rpm to move. Go and put a heavy load in the bed of your truck. Then take off like you normally would and watch how the rpms are a little higher than normal without the load. That's the converter slipping from the extra weight. That's what a higher stall converter does. It slips a little more than a stock converter to get you into your power range quicker. When you floor it from a stop with a 3000rpm stall the rpms will jump up to 3000 almost immediately but, under light throttle it will only slip a few hundred rpm more than a stock converter.

Don't listen to those trans guys your talking about. <2000 stall <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> You'll be fine with the 3000stall and I think you can retain full towing capability also. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> Just ask around here and I think everyone will agree. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Did that explanation make any sense because I was just rambling as I thought of stuff. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

John

 

Are you sure your truck starts pickin up power at 2k rpm? Most of the trucks I have driven including my own dont start to really pull till about 3000-3300rpm.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by F8LPONY:
<strong> Are you sure your truck starts pickin up power at 2k rpm? Most of the trucks I have driven including my own dont start to really pull till about 3000-3300rpm. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Agreed, my truck starts to pull around 3000rpm also. I think that's when the V-TECH kicks in? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

<small>[ April 23, 2003, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</small>

 

Dude, don't worry just get a 3000. I too thought about going conservative when I did the gear swap and the ASP pulley, but I am glad I did the 4.10s and I don't have any charging probs with the pulley. If I went conservative I would have regretted it. Hell get the 3200!!! I know I am once I get this damn TV paid off.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
<strong> I think that's when the V-TECH kicks in? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LMAO!!

Thx bro. After a disapointing day at the track I needed that. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If there is one things I have learned in the last 10 years of modding new cars is never to listen to damn service techs. Most of them wouldnt know performance if it walked up and kicked em in the face.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I never said they were service techs. One of them is my uncle and yes he does work for a dealership but he builds transmissions on the side for hot rodders and strip cars and knows what he is talking about. The other does the same but also runs his own business. I take what they say very seriously.

As for when the power kicks in on my truck, I should have worded it differently. What I meant was that it seems after 2000-2500rpm is when the truck starts to pull and loses that low rpm sluggishness. I'm not really worried about towing because I don't really do that either. I'm just a little bit leary, if you can't tell, about that high of a stall converter. Does anyone have any video of a dead stop run with a Yank? Somebody posted up a video before but it was a 3200 stall and the vehicle was already moving along. Believe I'm listening to all of your suggestions but I'm also listening to a very experienced mechanic. Like I said, I really don't feel like fighting the thing in traffic, the truck is my daily driver. Oh by the way, the Yank TT3000 will be on my doorstep tomorrow. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

I meant no offense to your family. But even so they dont really know these trucks that well from what you have stated. i wont doubt their mechanical knowledge.

Here is a video of a dead stop with a yank.

<a href="http://my.starstream.net/f8lpony/F8L%20Launch.avi" target="_blank">Not a truck though <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </a>