effects of using 15w40 oil in gas engine?
02-20-2010, 08:53 PM
#12
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats why I always warm my truck up before i change the oil so it don't run out so fast ....
I also refill the motor with oil through the Dip stick hole ,You get a better reading this way and faster cause the oil don't have to run all the way through the motor to get back to the Dip stick ....
Last edited by Whippleman; 02-20-2010 at 08:59 PM.
02-20-2010, 09:00 PM
#13
Actually I guess I had read wrong. Could've sworn that is what a long article I read on oil said, but when I look at stuff now it reads different.
It's a 15 weight oil at 0 degrees and only things to the point a 40 weight oil would at operating temp. It's a pretty weird concept.
It's a 15 weight oil at 0 degrees and only things to the point a 40 weight oil would at operating temp. It's a pretty weird concept.
02-20-2010, 09:02 PM
#15
If the contaminants sit in the bottom of the pan you don't get all of it out when you put clean oil in.
Direct from Mobil 1
Multi–viscosity oils contains polymers called viscosity modifiers and these polymers act to thicken an oil as it heats up in order to provide the high temperature viscosity as in the case of a 5W-30, the 30 grade high temperature viscosity. When these molecules cool they coil up and reduce their thickening properties to give you the low temperature starting and pumping viscosity of 5W oil. That is how the oil can act as a 5W- (low temperature) 30 (high temperature) multi-viscosity oil.
02-20-2010, 09:52 PM
#16
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
actually you warm the truck up so the contaminants in the engine get mixed back in with the oil instead of sitting in the bottom of the pan. Scott is right on this as I did check on it after he corrected me.
If the contaminants sit in the bottom of the pan you don't get all of it out when you put clean oil in.
Direct from Mobil 1
If the contaminants sit in the bottom of the pan you don't get all of it out when you put clean oil in.
Direct from Mobil 1
yeap your right i was just Ribbing the Guy!Actually i Pick up the oil and I like to throw it around on the Passenger side of the truck for a couple dayz LOL, Then when i'm in the Mood I will change the oil when i come home from work.... letting the Truck Cool for a few minutes while i kill a Coors Light.....Oil will run out like water carrying all the contaminants Suspended in the oil out with it!
I Always change my own Fluids! I had a Dealership try to CornHole me one time
another dealership corrected the issue and i have never used a dealership since!That was about the 30,000 mile trans survice,thats the only reason i had it at the dealer to start with...The Dirt was still on the Trans pan Bolts after they changed the Filter and oil LOL the other dealership called them and told them they Didn't change the filter!
02-21-2010, 09:17 AM
#17
Close...oil will take on the lubrication properties of the thinner weight when cold then have the lubrication qualities of the thicker weight when warm (on a multi-viscosity oil), but physically it is the other way around. This can be easily seen when you do an oil change on a warm engine as opposed to a cold one...the oil on the warm/hot engine will drain very quickly and feel thinner to your fingers, but try draining the oil on an engine that has sat overnight, it will come out more slowly, feel thicker...and make less of a mess in the drain pan lol.
02-21-2010, 10:32 AM
#18
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Southaven,MS
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Busted yeap your right i was just Ribbing the Guy!
Actually i Pick up the oil and I like to throw it around on the Passenger side of the truck for a couple dayz LOL, Then when i'm in the Mood I will change the oil when i come home from work.... letting the Truck Cool for a few minutes while i kill a Coors Light.....Oil will run out like water carrying all the contaminants Suspended in the oil out with it!
I Always change my own Fluids! I had a Dealership try to CornHole me one time another dealership corrected the issue and i have never used a dealership since!
That was about the 30,000 mile trans survice,thats the only reason i had it at the dealer to start with...The Dirt was still on the Trans pan Bolts after they changed the Filter and oil LOL the other dealership called them and told them they Didn't change the filter!
yeap your right i was just Ribbing the Guy!Actually i Pick up the oil and I like to throw it around on the Passenger side of the truck for a couple dayz LOL, Then when i'm in the Mood I will change the oil when i come home from work.... letting the Truck Cool for a few minutes while i kill a Coors Light.....Oil will run out like water carrying all the contaminants Suspended in the oil out with it!
I Always change my own Fluids! I had a Dealership try to CornHole me one time
another dealership corrected the issue and i have never used a dealership since!That was about the 30,000 mile trans survice,thats the only reason i had it at the dealer to start with...The Dirt was still on the Trans pan Bolts after they changed the Filter and oil LOL the other dealership called them and told them they Didn't change the filter!
As for oil, I run synthetic 5w30 and change it every 7-8k. Black oil does not mean it's not doing it's job actually the opposite, If your oil is still caramel in color there is alot more life left in it, however oil change intervals are a owner decision, conventional oils can easily go 5-7k before they get to the point of not protecting the engine under normal use.
02-21-2010, 10:57 AM
#19
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Mexico
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oil is also a cooling agent. a thicker oil takes longer to heat up and also cools faster. thinner oil has nothing to it to help stay cool so it warms up much faster then since so thin stays warm. There is nothing wrong with cold starts even in say 20* temps with 15w40. If you live where youre constantly below 20* then worry about those 5 and 0 weight oils. The warmer regions should run thicker oil.
Years ago ppl would run 10w30 in winter then 10w40 in summer. Manufactors went to 5w30 cause of emissions. In a daily ride 10w30 in a perfromance ride 15w40 or 20w50. Also thicker oil wont be consumed so much especially since using a LS1 and their horrible venting system. If you notice all the motors with 5w30 have more consumption then a thicker oil vehicle
Years ago ppl would run 10w30 in winter then 10w40 in summer. Manufactors went to 5w30 cause of emissions. In a daily ride 10w30 in a perfromance ride 15w40 or 20w50. Also thicker oil wont be consumed so much especially since using a LS1 and their horrible venting system. If you notice all the motors with 5w30 have more consumption then a thicker oil vehicle
02-21-2010, 11:08 AM
#20
If u have heating issues or have a hi HP motor lower wghts will generate more heat faster...thus u might want to switch to a higher wght oil - say 20-50 which is what many racers run. Tends to break down slower and therefore keeps viscosity longer, especially in summer. When I lived in colder climate we used to put 5-10wght in winter and switch to a heavier in summer (for obvious reasons!). If u race hot laps, track or beat the motor hard in summer its wise to go with heavier wghts or change it every 2000 miles IMO, if its just a plain motor/daily driver go with OEM. My 2 cents...