You'd have to remove the studs too in an F-body. If you can't get the heads off in the truck without removing studs, something is wrong.

 

Huh. It just looked like the brake booster is in the way.

I've been researching lube for the head stud install. I found this in ARP's website:

ARP-bolts.com | Answers to Frequently Asked Questions

It says in there that you can use loc-tite instead of lube. I don't have a speed shop near by so I'd have to order what ever lube I'd use. I've got a napa and autozone near me. The workers there are pretty clueless so unless I know exactly what lube I need, I'll have to order it or use red loc-tite.

Any recommendations on what lube to use on head studs? I've read some folks just use oil.

 

As for the lube, you can use motor oil( yah I know there are some arguments ) I have used it on all my engines, as has my father with never a issue( 1xx engines)

 

I found the instructions on ARP's website.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-4316.pdf

In the second half they recommend a 25ftlb torque. They must be talking about the smaller studs.

Here's the proper lube.

ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant

 

Are you saying you've used motor oil instead of lube on over 100 different engines?

 

I have 3k miles on my ls1 using those head studs and my brother has about the the same on his blown lq4 so far no issues. I have 2 more sets laying at my shop for future builds already since they are so cheap

 

Yes. Like I said i am sure the die hards will say no you cant do that, but if you do the sequence, let sit for a little and go back over them, it works no problem.

 

ARP's instructions even given separate tq specs for using oil. Done it plenty of times, usually an extra 10ftlbs over using the moly lube.

 

Yup i used mobil 1 oil torqued down to 80ft/lbs worked really well

 

Thanks guys. I'll just use Mobil 1 then! That's the oil I usually run.

I'll be replacing most of the seals in the engine. You guys think I should run conventional motor oil for the first 500 miles?