I realy dont have a clue other than it does not work. Maybe these people actualy had there trucks dynoed on a AWD dyno and then assumed you could pull the front shaft to do it in 2WD mode....i will be looking for an AWD dyno in my area for a long time im afraid

 

Yeah, that's really strange.

I'm not familiar with car/truck dyno's, but the only thing I can think of is that the dyno wheel simulates a very lightweight vehicle... not a 5,000lb+ tank. (with the light load on the dyno, it doesn't "override" or over-stress the coupling like it might when nailing the throttle on the road.)

 

I see what your saying. Anything over like quarter throttle and the truck would rev but not accelerate so the rollers would really have to produce not much resistance at all for this to work. I would think with something that touchy you would get alot of false readings. (assuming mark is right) doesnt anyone on this board work for a speed shop and can shed some light here? this is an enthusiast board....

 

Is it possible that there is something in the abs system that senses wheel speed difference and applies the brakes or pulls timing?

 

Looks like plan 'a' is the only option, remove front shaft and run in hump mode (short of a AWD dyno). I guess I'll stick to the engine dyno this time

 

Obviously, since many have dyno'd this way, removing the front shaft in the NVG149 WILL transfer 100% of the power to the back in "Hump" mode. My guess is the light throttle does not produce enough heat in the fluid to "lock" the plates into hump mode. A full throttle try with the shaft off should produce copious amounts of tire smoke!!! And It should be no more harmfull than a full throttle run on the dyno.

Butch 02 Sierra Denali

 

(Hey Butch!)

 

Yes. They are also a great shop based on my past car a WRX.