Disable ABS?
#11
i would like to disable my abs also.this is the first vehicle i owned with abs and i dont like it at all.i want to be in control of the vehicle not the vehicle in control of me.on snow or wet surfaces its in control.i feel as if im a good enough driver that if i have a skid i can steer out of it and still have brake power to stop.does disabling the abs show up on a dealers scanner?for example i disable it then turn it back on before i take it to the dealer,will they know?
#12
Originally Posted by JSmith
I'm with you Mac. The ABS system sucks now with the new brakes. Once the back gets un-weighted enough to slightly lock up the rears of course then the ABS kicks in. Maybe a brake bias adjuster would help out here.
The only thing worse than ABS is Traction Control. A car with that =
(not high performance) and a person who needs it shouldn’t be driving a high performance car anyways. I can't begin to tell you how much better my Camaro stops since I removed the ABS on it! Realize that I have fat tires all around, LG coilovers on it (STIFF), and rod ends on EVERYTHING! so I needed the ability to balance the brakes with a proportioning valve (the initial reason for getting rid of ABS) to be able to take advantage of my full setup. At first I was "I hope this won't suck" but everyone I talked to who had been racing for many years said "GIT RID OF IT! The car will brake faster/smoother/more predictable without it!" and THEY WERE RIGHT!
For a STOCK car/truck, there is no reason to get rid of the ABS. You can't ask enough out of the tires/springs/shocks/etc. to make it worth giving up the "idiot assistance" (were all idiots at times
). Once you start really getting the vehicle stiffened up and the braking system up to the point where it can really do something, then I personally feel you are better off without the ABS (though you have to keep in mind that now YOU will need to do the "anti-locking"
).
#13
Pull the 60amp fuse in the underhood fuseblock. I would not suggest it.
Do you have the bigger or smaller tires than stock? There is a bulletin out for front wheel sensor mounting surfaces getting dirty and opening the air gap, you might try that. If your truck has the stock
Goodyears just change the tires, those things suck for traction.
Be careful about replacing the ABS module with different part numbers. Early ones have problems with relays shorting. The later ones have so many part numbers it is just silly, wrong part number and your problem just got worse. After replacing the EBCM you have to program the tire size with a Tech2.
Now, I have heard it from everyone that you can stop a car in a shorter stopping distance without ABS. Which is true, if you know what and how it is coming. But ABS never has a slow reaction time, or a bad day, it dosen't get suprised or tired. It "looks" at the wheels locking up and does it's job everytime, exactly the same. I don't know about you but, I can't pump the pedal several dozen times a second.
Just my opinion.
Do you have the bigger or smaller tires than stock? There is a bulletin out for front wheel sensor mounting surfaces getting dirty and opening the air gap, you might try that. If your truck has the stock
Goodyears just change the tires, those things suck for traction.Be careful about replacing the ABS module with different part numbers. Early ones have problems with relays shorting. The later ones have so many part numbers it is just silly, wrong part number and your problem just got worse. After replacing the EBCM you have to program the tire size with a Tech2.
Now, I have heard it from everyone that you can stop a car in a shorter stopping distance without ABS. Which is true, if you know what and how it is coming. But ABS never has a slow reaction time, or a bad day, it dosen't get suprised or tired. It "looks" at the wheels locking up and does it's job everytime, exactly the same. I don't know about you but, I can't pump the pedal several dozen times a second.
Just my opinion.
#15
Originally Posted by StupidFast
Pull the 60amp fuse in the underhood fuseblock. I would not suggest it.
a) you will turn on warning lights all over the gauge cluster (ABS inop, brake, etc.....)
b) you still have the ABS housing which has delay in the system so you are not getting an accurate representation of how the vehical will perform with the ABS gone.
You need to bypass the ABS housing (with the brake lines) but leave the electrical connections intact so the control system thinks everything is still working (I hope one of these days someone comes out with a step by step way to rewire/cut/splice so you can COMPLEATLY remove the ABS stuff).
Getting rid of the ABS is a BIGGGGG decision and should NOT be taken lightly. You need to think about it A LOT before you do it because once its gone, there is no putting it back (within reason).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MA$TER_E
Tuning, Diagnostics, Electronics, and Wiring
5
Sep 9, 2015 03:14 PM
97aztecgt
GMT 800 & Older GM General Discussion
8
Aug 13, 2015 02:11 PM






