Got my LPE gt2-3 and yellow ls6 springs in the mail today (thanks allballz57), and plan to order hi-tech comp 7.4" rods and a longer crank bolt soon. I searched here and ls1tech for specifics but couldnt find what I was looking for.

I was going to follow this guide: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

1. Most obvious question, that guide works for my LM7 5.3, right? Just making sure...

2. Whats the best way to compress the springs? I dont really want to spend $150 on a tool I would only use once.

3. Do I need the spare retainer locks?

4. Could I use RTV on the water pump instead of buying another gasket? Or is the gasket a better idea, and piece of mind for the cost?

5. My engine has roughly 40,000 miles on it, should I replace the timing chain while its sitting in front of me?

6. Do I need new valve stem seals?

7. The LS6 springs work with the stock retainers and seats, correct?

8. Do I need a new front engine seal or is the old one possible reusable?

9. I have an air compressor and can get a spark plug adapter fitting, but are there any other specialty tools I really should get and just resell when im done?

10. Any tips?


I know its alot of questions, but I dont like surprises when my truck is in pieces and this is my first time doing internal engine modifications.

thanks

 

I was going to follow this guide: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

1. Most obvious question, that guide works for my LM7 5.3, right? Just making sure...
that's the best guide I know of. It wont be spot on for the truck engine, but the internals are all the same

2. Whats the best way to compress the springs? I dont really want to spend $150 on a tool I would only use once.
There's a $30 tool for sale on the LS1tech tools section. It has good reviews

3. Do I need the spare retainer locks?
Not sure what you mean here. Just reuse all your stock ones

4. Could I use RTV on the water pump instead of buying another gasket? Or is the gasket a better idea, and piece of mind for the cost?
You can RTV the gasket. But a better solution is to buy the camshaft swap kit from TSP. It's around $50 and includes front timing cover gasket, water pump gaskets, and crank bolt

5. My engine has roughly 40,000 miles on it, should I replace the timing chain while its sitting in front of me?
I wouldn't waste the time personally. The only time I've heard of a stock one breaking is people who constantly run their engines up to 7k. I've yet to hear of one on this site. To do so requires that you remove the oil pump and then you need to replace the o ring gasket there and sometimes it gets pinched and you get low oil pressure. You can buy a new LS2 timing chain which is beefier than your LS1 chain and its only $40 from Yank. So it's up to you.

6. Do I need new valve stem seals?
No

7. The LS6 springs work with the stock retainers and seats, correct?
Yes

8. Do I need a new front engine seal or is the old one possible reusable?
See #4

9. I have an air compressor and can get a spark plug adapter fitting, but are there any other specialty tools I really should get and just resell when im done?
Not sure

10. Any tips?

 

Everything he said. but on 9 the air compressor spark plug tool is best.

did you do a search for cam Swap. there's a perfect thread that tells you everything you need, and everything you should replace.
But everything has pretty much been covered already here.

 

Awesome, thanks!

What do I do about locking the flywheel? The guide mentions a locking device but then also says drop the start and jamming in a screwdriver is fine, so?...

 

Tyler had a thread on a great way to do that with an old belt. I'll see if i can find it

 

Here's one way to do it. But it is very recommended to use an impact to put the bolt back in.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=429300

And use an OLD belt. cuz it'll get stretched out pretty good. But for the record, we just used an impact to do mine, engine didn't spin and bolts still in.

 

The screwdriver technique worked for me. If you are planning for a supercharger it is probably a good time to pin the balancer/pulley too.

 

Could you elaborate on that, im not sure what you mean?

Whats the deal with this assembly grease stuff I keep seeing?

 

I have all the correct cam change tools if you want to rent them. PM me.

 

Jam a big prybar through the balancer and prop under the power steering bracket for removal of the balancer bolt.

Jam the same prybar through the balancer and prop under the A/C compressor backet for installation of the balancer bolt.

You need a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 3" extension and socket, or just a deep socket, and a long pipe (floor jack handle works) to stretch the new bolt on.