i would agree but the cam is mismatched for your setup, you have nothing to help the cam, it needs the surrounding parts to make it all work!

when you change one part you have to change several parts specially if you go over the 220 mark duration of a cam.. ya see the 220 is proven cause its used with stock parts like intake manifold, stock heads and so forth!! and doesnt need a very big stall. but youre going in the right direction a custom grind is always the way to go, i had one off the shelf cam, and it was my last!! heres a tip someone that specs out a cam wiill ask you tons of questions about your truck, they'll input all that info and pop out a cam for ya

 

ok comp cams are bunch of retard they keep giving me a cam spec for a ls6 cam. so called crane cams things what we cam up with.

216/224 585/585 114 lsa
whats does everyone think

 

Thanks for the help your probably only person that came up with answer beside everyone else talking about the road kill cam.

 

Bump..

 

i am getting a new cam soon and had PAT G spec one out, i also called a couple of cam company and their reccomendations were lower than with PAT G. I wanted a cam that gave low end power but maintained driveability here is what was spec'd out for. me. itruck is only a 4.8 with stock manifolds, (long tubes are going in soon as i figure out which ones will bolt up to stock cats) rest of mods in sig. anyways it was a 214/218 .600"/.590" 113LSA+4advance. don't know if it is good or not as everyone is running a 220 but i will give it a shot.

 

Wow! so you mean to tell me that your "custom" cam can do a 12 sec flat 1/4 mi @ 4400ish lbs with a stock longblock, 3600 converter and 4.10's? damn i must be doing it all wrong for the past 6 years

seriously though slowswb, you can't go wrong with the 220. its been proven many times

 

Yes!

 

pat g spec one out for me. i should hear back from them soon.