back away from the computer and pick up a book. a 6.0L is a 364 and .030 over is a 370. also if he is paying 1k for a 6.0 bare block he is making 400 bucks on you. you can go to dealer and get a bare block for 600 bucks. as for that much labor into P&P and flow benching thats crazy you can buy heads done up already for that price. hes again ripping you off. dude dont call that guy ever again, hes just making money on you. and you obviously dont know what youre getting into and just going by what a dude that is taking your money is saying.

you said low CR well even with a 9.5 cr you still should see good numbers. remember this a 346 and yes thats smaller then your 370 with a good cam and heads will make around 440rwhp with not much money into it. thats all on stock internals and etc. hell you got ppl with a 224 cam on a 346 with bolt ons making 400rwhp. and now you want a 370 but why is he making it a .030 over when he is buying a new block for 1k? or he is getting a used block for 1k and ripping more money out of your pocket. dude please do more research before pissing your money away to someone who is in it for just the money.

 

I was just about to make the same post.
For what he is charging you, you can have the motor built, get a sick set of AFR heads (and dont tell me this guy can compete with those!) cam, and a sweet direct port system.
Its your money, but alot of us have spent ALOT of money acquiring this knowledge.
BTW I can point you in the direction of MANY long blocks in good shape for about 1K. I also think you should check with Richard at WCCH on this site, he is a stand up guy and the person I am going to for my heads. IMO his work is at least equal to AFR but his prices and priceless advice puts him in the #1 spot in my book.
Heres one https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=364476
although mine was in 100% top shape with 30K miles. It still has the factory cross hatching.

 

hell i got my complete LQ9 for 800 bucks, im sure you can find a good starting basis for less then he quoted.

 

There doesn't seem to be many people making over 400rwhp n/a with the stock truck intake. Since your modding a truck and not a car, it's better to build an engine combo that makes great torque from off idle to 5500rpms. Your cam choice will depend on things such as gear ratio, tire diameter, converter stall and compression ratio. It's possible to build a strong running 6.0l, pass the CA smog test and get decent gas mileage. As mentioned above, a stroker crank is a great setup for making lots of torque and still maintain street manners. With a properly sized cam, you should have no problem meeting the emissions requirements as well.
Setup a budget on how much you can afford to spend. It helps to be able to determine what combination of components to choose.
Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions or need ideas. We're always happy to help.

Good luck,

Richard

 

After 2.5mos of engine shopping here's what I can tell u: expect to spend $12-15k for 450-525rwhp installed & tuned - incl tranny. I just contracted for a built 370 (.030 overbore) and I expect after machine work and dyno I'll be lucky to own less than $6G's - and thats using LS6 ported heads and MAYBE a high end crank if I have to...GM stock cranks are plenty good and 1/3rd the price of the high end aftermarkets.
The extra cash is all in the machine work and testing. The motor will be built and trial fit at least 3 times before final assembly and dyno. The machine work is critical. Everything must be bored, then honed. All hard edges must be softened, heads need to be ported flow tested, fitted and measured. Rods need to be balanced, die marks honed and polished. the block must have the proper RA (smoothness of hone) to match your application and use.
There 's a great book: ENGINE BLUEPRINTING: step by step guide by Rick Voegelin that goes thru the wholoe process in depth. Anyone can build and blueprint a motor, but if u want it to last even half as long as the stock motor ur pulling out (which has millions of R&D behind these same things), then spend the extra $1500 in labour now. Racers do all this stuff to gain 1 or 2hps, which is winning or losing...for us its extra miles and yrs. R/

 

One more thing...no matter what everyone tells u make sure u do ur homework if ur gonna get the motor blown. Mag's will not handle a 402 very well. I have no first hand knowledge but at least 6 builders have said that the pulley size wud be the smallest possible, and it'll be spinning at such a high rate just to put out 5 or 6lbs, that chances are ur gonna get so much extra heat that the whole setup will require contstant tuning and tweeking. Whipple has a new blower almost ready I'm told, and that'll be the bomb. In my opinion a 370, with the new J-tube (90mm TB) shud be able to generate close to 500rwhp, if not a bit more - RELIABLY! R/

 

about 2 yrs ago we put together a 408 stroker using all new parts. it produced roughly 540rwhp and the cost was around 7k. we installed it ourselves.

honestly 12k for a motor is fawking crazy and to only see those low numbers wouldnt be worth it
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also if you swap from a truck intake to a LS6 intake like i did. im converted from truck to car setup, car lines, car accesories and etc. by doing this your more open to different setups

 

$6-7G's agreed + Tranny ~$2500, install ~$1200 (seems going rate, for a pull & reinstall), tune...another $600 argueable...thats $10.5-11.5G's. Shudn't really cost much more for a stroker 408 or a 370. Ur gonna do the same amount of machine work, and maybe spend a little more on rolling stock. I'm just telling u what guys like SLP, Livernois, Lingenfelter, BRE...etc will charge turn key. My goal was a reliable TESTED and R&D'd setup...thast the higher cost of the LPE & Livernois ($15k + each!!! eeek). Also those builders offered 2y/24k miles warranty....a waste if they're on the other side of the country and its not a major meltdown.

 

man up and install yourself. its very simple if you have the background or comonsense. thats a bought not built setup, but this is only my opinion. buying a motor is one thing but paying someone to install is another.

 

Thanks for all the advice quik. I have no prob. starting with a stroker bottom end and bolting on the heads, intake, cam, and pulleys myself as I am very patient. I was actually going to install the finished engine into my truck anyways. I've just heard of some horror stories where people miss a trick of the trade and end with a bunch of probs. Maybe you could pm me some of the stuff you did with that 408 along with parts used. It'd help me figure whats involved in building it myself. 540rwhp would be damm nice. Also be nice not to get ripped
off