5.3l to 5.7l?
#41
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for a cheap build, your plan sounds pretty good. i would advise you to go ahead and spend a little bit more and put an 80e in it. the 60e will fail. just do a search on here many others including myself have been through several 60e's before going with an 80e. my first 60 lasted 150k miles. about 50k behind a cam/nitrous 5.3 before it let go. i went through 3 more after that. your stock computer is fine. you will just need to retune it for the new found power.
#42
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Ok where should I go for the 80e then? and how much more will it cost for the conversion? what will I need to do about the drive shaft and the transfer case? id like to rebuild the transfer case or get a new one but seems like nobody knows much about them, what do I do about that?
#43
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Ok where should I go for the 80e then? and how much more will it cost for the conversion? what will I need to do about the drive shaft and the transfer case? id like to rebuild the transfer case or get a new one but seems like nobody knows much about them, what do I do about that?
#44
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I'm going to go ahead and be the black sheep here I say go with the 60e, if your not over 500 crank hp, a built 60e will be just fine. An 80e takes some power, i know a few n/a guys with 80es that hate the swap. 80e makes it a dog without a good convertor and some gears. Just my .02 cents. I also like the idea of your 5.7, IF my 5.3 every needs a rebuild its either going in as a 383 stroker or a 5.7.
#45
A 4L60e will last a long time with under 400hp and if you leave it in OD. A lot of people blow their 4L60es up b/c they drop it down into 2nd or 2rd and manually shift it all the time, or they are driving the dog s*** out of it doing burnouts and donuts all the time.
My buddy drives like this and went through 3 rebuilt 4L60e about 10K apart and an 80e that lasted 22K. He was only making 330rwhp also. So any transmission will "fail" at some point if you drive and grind the living hell out of it.
OP I would call the machine shop and get a price on 2" valves and porting. Then compare that to buying a set of 243s.
I agree with everybody on the boost being a better route, but some of us are newbies to the boost world and scared of the project turning into a nightmare money pit. lol
My buddy drives like this and went through 3 rebuilt 4L60e about 10K apart and an 80e that lasted 22K. He was only making 330rwhp also. So any transmission will "fail" at some point if you drive and grind the living hell out of it.
OP I would call the machine shop and get a price on 2" valves and porting. Then compare that to buying a set of 243s.
I agree with everybody on the boost being a better route, but some of us are newbies to the boost world and scared of the project turning into a nightmare money pit. lol
#46
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Yeah im going to look more into the heads, but I think depending on how cheap it is im just going to port the heads and put 2" intake valves in. I can get a used set of 243 heads on ebay around $300-500 so it just depends on how cheap the shop can do it. but ive narrowed it down for the pistons, im getting hypereutectic 3.903 pistons with moly rings, and bore the block to 3.905 to make it a 347. yeah I hear the 4l80 takes power and has slow take offs but is a bulletproof tranny, I like the 4l60's I had, the first truck had stock everything and it had 250k no problems at all, this truck is all stock with 211k with no probs so I think a built 4l60 with a 3k stall will work just fine on the 5.7l. where should I send the computer too to get tuned?
#47
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Yeah im going to look more into the heads, but I think depending on how cheap it is im just going to port the heads and put 2" intake valves in. I can get a used set of 243 heads on ebay around $300-500 so it just depends on how cheap the shop can do it. but ive narrowed it down for the pistons, im getting hypereutectic 3.903 pistons with moly rings, and bore the block to 3.905 to make it a 347. yeah I hear the 4l80 takes power and has slow take offs but is a bulletproof tranny, I like the 4l60's I had, the first truck had stock everything and it had 250k no problems at all, this truck is all stock with 211k with no probs so I think a built 4l60 with a 3k stall will work just fine on the 5.7l. where should I send the computer too to get tuned?
#48
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Ok yeah ill prob do that then, theres a place I know of in Kingfisher I can take it. would I have any problems running it with the new motor on the stock computer for a lil bit til I can take it over there?
#49
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#50
You could maybe take your ecu to the shop and they could pull a bunch of timing and give you a low power safety net tune to drive it over there!
As far as the parts cam for example, You can find it brand new using google shopping for $360-70 all day long from people. Save you $30 FYI
As far as the parts cam for example, You can find it brand new using google shopping for $360-70 all day long from people. Save you $30 FYI