So if Im estimating your answer correctly you are leading me to believe I had a damaged crank prior to my assembly and completely overlooked it like an ***? Stand by for post with pics.. its not pretty.

 

This is towards the rear of the engine side of thrust bearing


This is the better side of the bearing which appears at least within a thousandth of factory spec according to clevite


I do believe this is the measurement you were in search of 1fastbrick? (.838)


good side of thrust flange, crank side, forward side of thrust bearing


Hard to tell but there is a deep ridge where the thrust bearing rode, cant say for sure whether my new bearing ate it or if it was already eaten some how prior to my assembly. (rear side of thrust flange)


Rear side of thrust bearing (facing flexplate)


all in all I believe I need a crank and mains, then I will double check my tolerances and probably jam it back in the truck and hope for the best. Budget isnt allowing for a build, prefer not to go 6.0 route, if I did a build I want a low compression 383 for turbo later on.

So if anyone has a crank PLEASE email or PM me.

 

It is possible. Did it have any known issues when you tore it down?

If I know an engine has a specific problem, I always try and consult a local engine shop that I use. Some times they will take a quick look at things for me to see if things are in spec. Depending on their workload they will usually be able to tell if something like the crank is junk either the same day or the next day.

 

The measurement I referenced was for the Crank itself. It's measured between the 2 thrust surfaces.

From the pictures you posted, That crank is now a large paperweight.

 

upon my receipt of the engine I went and snagged it for 400$ from an Air Force dude in Phx. He told me it was a junkyard pull out he was going to build for his truck that he eventually sold before he got a chance. He claimed it ran and had in the neighborhood of 120k when he picked it up, it sat in his garage unmolested around a year and all he claimed he did was an oil change and removed the manifolds in which I had to extract a broken stud from the head.

Shame on me for overlooking 3 things as well as taking someone elses word.

Out of curiosity do you know if its a capability for a machine shop to essentially fill this ridge in with weld, grind it to spec and be safe to run it?

 

agreed...

 

I strongly suggest you have the block cleaned and then use and engine brush kit and cleaning solvent to clean all the oil galleries prior to reassembly.

A crank shouldn't be hard to come by. These are starting to pile up in the local Pick n pull type yards out here.

 

It can be welded but for the cost of doing so it would be easier to just get another crank.

 

unfortunately down here in the Dirty T the pick n pull yard has either gone by the wayside or is picked over last I heard. I know for sure the one in Phx turned in to an LKQ making a pick n pull non existent aside from ghetto-ville, and its all late model **** box sedans.
AAA truck recyclers in Phx is my only option if they even sell a crank separate and it wont be cheap.

 

Any reason to go to CA?

Or Check ebay and craigslist.

LKQ Corporation bought out Pick Your Part and Pick-A-Part.

There are a few yards out here were the engines were already pulled and laying on the ground. The Yard Monkey's that frequent these yards rape pillage and plunder all the good stuff from these trucks the minute they drop. They do the dumbest stuff like Pull an engine to get to a trans and dump it on the ground and break things like the intake manifold, coils packs and valve covers. They also cut the wiring harness to remove parts instead of unplugging it. It's not uncommon to find a seat missing the bottom cushion or the motors instead of taking the whole seat. They also rip the door panels off to get a set of speakers or a window regulator.