02's just started at a low voltage and creeped up over a long period of time, like 10 minutes to go from .2 to .5, no switching at all, after awhile they started switching but i think they are screwed

 

so they acted like open loop for 10 minutes?

What tells the computer to go to closed loop? Coolant temp? Time delay? Both?

Does your wideband still work okay?

 

i think it is a time delay, my ltrims went +25 by the time they started switching, then came down. prety sure with atap i can run some tests on the 02's to check the responce time, stuff like that.

wide band doesn't work at all, all of those sensors are expensive, this may have been a $300-400 mistake.

 

When I had my stock intake with the ATI, I sealed up a boost leak with regular , non sensor safe silicone. Alot of it! I didn't even think about it until I had driven it for a few days. My sensors didn't get hurt.

I can't imagine a small amount of sensor safe in the intake doing that much damage.

I'm still hoping its something else.

 

How about the o2 sensor heater circuit? Does that have a separate fuse? Blown Maybe?

Just throwing ideas out.

 

A fuse wouldn't mess with the wideband O2.

I cant imagine a little dab of sealant screwing up all three O2 sensors.

Do a search, but I think I remember seeing something about using a torch to heat clean the O2 sensors.

 

If you were getting that much ltrims I would check those plugs. Mine looked horrible after about 10 miles of +25strims.

http://bettie.homeip.net/atvpics/tru...s/100_0580.JPG

 

Parish, I think your O2s are fine. Being as cold as it is out where you live, it probably takes 10 minutes before your sensors are warm enough to get out of open loop. I just did some logs for some WOT runs with my new cam about half an hour ago, and the truck idled for four minutes before the O2s were warm.
What you described as the readings climbing to +25 before they started jumping around was normal.
On the runs I just logged in AutoTap, my l-trims at WOT were 0.0% on both banks. What you noticed in your run with the l-trims being +7 (lean) and low O2 numbers (lean) both coincide with eachother.

My opinion: do an l-trim test by logging on AutoTap your l-trims for about a 15-20 minute normal drive. **without going wot (that will mess up the test) Put the AutoTap file into Excel and average both O2 bank readings. (since O2 banks are normally off a bit, average both averages together i.e. if B1 averaged +3.2 and B2 averaged +2.7; the average of (3.2+2.7)/2= +2.95) Take that number and scale your IFR table using that average as a percent. In this case since they were positive multiply the table by 97% to reduce or richen you mixture by 3%.
I am sure you already knew how to do this, but for others reading... That is strange your wide band O2 went out though
Good Luck man!
Ryan

 

my garge is 70deg, i dont really think it is normal for the 02's to take that long to get active. there is no way having the ltrims go +25 before they become active is normal. i wish those things wern't soo expensive.

hey, forgot, i didn't purge at all on that nitrous run. i did put in the 125 shot and did a hole shot and got a 1.71 60'.

 

i used alittle "sensor safe" rtv during the header install and it screwed up my o2 sensors also. the SES light came on after about 5 minutes of driving around and the code was "bank 1 sensor 1 slow response" or something like that. i believe your SES should have came on if it messed them up.