rednekferlife101

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I got a nnbs Silverado with a 408 stroker, procharged and meth. Made 701/649. Looking to up the boost a bit more and put a Holley hi ram on it. It runs between 210-215 with a 174 thermostat in it. Should I go to an aftermarket rad and fans to get it down a little cooler or shouldn't I waste my money and just leave the stock rad and fans and keep running it warm like stock? Thanks!

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

You going by the cluster or a gauge for that temp reading.

Just curious is all, because the factory gauge cluster will read 15 degrees warmer than it really is. 210 = 190-195.

rednekferlife101

iTrader: (1)

I'm going off my cluster. When I went to this 408 I put a lower thermostat in and the temps didn't go down at all. Not sure if that's from the bigger motor or if my new thermostat is messed up. It would start to climb up close to 230 degrees on the highway when my converter wouldn't lock in. But that's fixed now and it stays right at 210-215 on the factory gauge

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

I'd try and get a scan tool to read the temp and really see where you are at first.

It's one of my dislikes about the cluster gauge, it's never what the real temp it.

ezdaar

iTrader: (1)

dump the hot air sucking procharger for a turbo, get some cooler air into that motor and remove all that parasitic loss from the procharger. You will see temp drops and equal to or more power.
use the money from selling the procharger and NOT buying the high ram to fund a turbo kit.

rednekferlife101

iTrader: (1)

Ya I can try and see where it's at with my scan tool. But it's at the stock temp which seems warm to me but maybe it's fine. And I like my procharger with not melting stuff under my hood haha. I got dual m10 meth nozzles cooling my intake air. And I already have the hi ram. I built this motor the way I wanted it. If I wanted to twin turbo it I would have. I thought long and hard about it. Went with the f1a-94 head unit its plenty big for my power levels

ezdaar

iTrader: (1)

your exhaust wrapped under that procharger inlet?
If not dbl wrap them all the way down to end of collector.

Recently did a setup for a friend, his chevy SS started with a engine bay that would get so hot, even the plastic shroud over the intake was to hot to touch. we would pop hood and let it cool off for a hour before even attempting to get in there.

so he bought stainless AR headers and full exhaust. had the headers ceramic coated inside and out then dbl wrapped them in the new DEI wrap, then wrapped the pipes all the way to the tips with the 4" wide DEI wrap.
the exhaust gass is moving so fast and so hot it Might as well be a blowtorch out the back of the car now.
I also wrapped every hot water hose under the hood and thermal insulated the CAI box and tube all the way up to the TB, which one day when I get off my *** will be coated also.

Under hood temps dropped so much you can rest your hand directly on the intake now with out being burned. it cooled off the intake charge and engine temps so much it required a re-tune, yea yea the exhaust played a huge part in needing a tune, but the heat being removed from the engine was substantial.

Maybe worth a short for you to go hog wild wrapping everything that gets hot.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

^ Had very similar experience on a 2010 SS Camaro with a Helion kit. Can vouch for the effectiveness of wrapping/insulating.

rednekferlife101

iTrader: (1)

My under hood doesn't get crazy hot there's a lot of air flow through my grille into the engine bay and I don't have a belly pan it's all open. Will be getting a cowl good for it to get more air out too eventually but wrapping the exhaust couldn't hurt!

ezdaar

iTrader: (1)

Just because you have alot of airflow into the engine bay does not mean it gets out as easily. Sometimes that makes engine bay tenps worse.
Cowls dont let air out, they let air in.
Before adding a 400$ cowl hood, fix your heat probs, then add the cowl if you want that look with a block off plate so not to,disturb the engine bay air exvacuation.
A proper airdam under the bumper and a properly sealed off lower section of the core support will create a low pressure zone under the truck at aprox driver seat area, and will suck the engine bay heat out the bottom while driving.
Combine that with wrapping everything, you will drasticaly drop inder hppd temps which translates to pulling heat out of the engine, this cooling water temps.