Guys, 3 questions to clear up on removing/swapping an engine.

1. Is there no need to remove the radiator when doing the engine swap. Reading through some post and it isn't mentioned.
2. You don't need to pull the intake to do this right? It is mentioned to get to knock sensor jump wires and top two tranny bolts. I don't remember doing that when I swapped out my tranny last year (on a lift)
3. A/C can stay charged during all this right?

Thanks guys.

 

1. No need to remove the radiator
2. Removing intake was easier for me, a lot more room to work with
3. Yes, A/C can stay charged

 

ditto to all 3. removing the intake is easy

 

Do you really need the fuel line tool to disconnect the feed and return lines or can I get it without it? not sure if it's the line on the intake or somewhere else?

 

You will need it. I wasnt able to get by without it. Get the two at Orielly with the angled handle for like 3.99 a peice. Its cheap and it makes quick work of it. I tried a screw driver but i gave up after 5 minutes of hell!

 

can you elaborate on why the AC can stay charged? How will it not release everything out of it once disconnected?

 

you dont disconnect the ac, you unbolt the compressor and tie it to the side out of the way, that way nothing leaks out of the system

 

1. radiator can stay, but I've pulled it b/c on my first rodeo I saw a motor swing out and dent the radiator... it's only two bolts at that point so it's not like it's hard.
2. removing the intake makes it easier to route your chains for the engine lift and it's one less thing on top to be banging on the cowl, again, at this point in the game it's only a few bolts that are fairly easy to get to and it is involved with almost all of the wiring harness, with it off you know that you have just about everything disconnected and it makes it easier to see the wiring harness for clearance.
3. A/C can stay charged. You aren't removing the a/c condenser coil, the compressor is on the bottom passenger side so it's not in the way, you just unbolt it from it's bracket and let it hang.

couple more tips if you didn't pick up on them already:
*the bracket with the alternator and p.s. pump can be removed from the motor as one unit, then tucked to the side next to the pcm - no need to break open the p.s. system or even unbolt the alternator.
*the water pump doesn't even have to leave the truck, it can be tied off to the side next to the intake box/ coolant reservoir (yes, I hate messing with those hoses that bad).
*don't forget to support the transmission before pulling on the motor, not that you are going to break anything, but it keeps the trans level and keeps your point of reference for installing the new motor
*on the motor mounts, pull the bolt that runs from the front to the back, not the three bolts holding the mount in the truck. you'll have half of the motor mount out, swap it over and drop the new motor in, much easier to line up.

 

REMOVE THE OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT!!!!!! (i think thats what it is) before you put the chains on. Its the tall sensor that comes about 3" off the top of the block!!! I didnt and it cost me 40 bucks at the local parts store. Mine hit the firewall when i was dropping the new motor in and SNAP!!!!

 

I would remove the radiator just for safety, no need to bang it up if you take the extra 10 min it might save you the trouble of replacing it.

Pull the intake and use a nice JPA Install tool

Yes the AC can stay charged.