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215/220 112 LSA cam

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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 09:44 AM
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maikell77's Avatar
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Default 215/220 112 LSA cam

Wnated to hear some thoughts. I'm debating buying a used cam that is a 215/220 on a 112 LSA. It comes with dual valve springs and titatanium retainers. Would this be difficult to tune. I have HP tuners and would only try to get it drivable. I would then get it to a tuner to have it done by someone who knows more than I.

The second question I have is would it be better to have a spare set of heads I have rebuilt and then swap the heads with the cam, or just put the springs on in the car. I guess I should mention I have 110k.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 11:47 AM
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that'd be a good cam in your truck...
just throw about 24* in there and raise you redline to ~6500, fatten your fuel curve 10% and raise your idle to about 750... it'll run nice.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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That's what I was thinking. I'm pretty excited to crack this thing open.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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IMO I wouldn't run it up to 6500. As for "fuel curve" that's not the way to go. Just install the cam and start tuning your VE tables by the fuel trims. It's a pretty simple process and gets you really close to perfect. As for timing, don't mess with it until you get the VE tuned, then proceed to add timing until you see knock. If you see knock then back off. Once your VE is done you can modify the PE EQ ratio to make the commanded afr around 12.7-13.0. I've found that range to make good power, at least in my truck.

That cam is pretty good for something that's driveable and makes good power. The double springs aren't really necessary in that application, but they'll work well. You can easily install springs in the car with the crane cams valvespring tool. It works really fast and easy. We used it on my truck a few weeks ago for the cam swap and Matt laughed at how much faster it was.

ps: the tuning guide in the GM Tuning and Diagnostics forum is very nice and shows how to do everything in HPTuners
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 03:04 PM
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I've been able to get my tuned pretty well following that guide. I just don't know what to adjust beyond VE, PE, and spark. Then I guess the only other thing to really change with a cam is the idle speed. From what I'm inferring as long as I take my time tuning the VE's it should be straight forward and run fine.

As of no I have it tuned to where all of the trims are less than 3. Which I'm assuming the same process of logging and changing and logging would be repeated after the cam. There's just more chance of two foot driving while tuning?
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