2009 Suburban 5.3L LC9 to 6.0 swap
06-06-2013, 09:11 AM
#31
Comp Cams XTREME RPM HIGH LIFT XR265HR 212/218 .558/.563 115 LSA
Gaskets, They're all reusable. However, would get new exhaust manifold gaskets. They only go on correctly, and watch the edges, they're sharp as hell.
Be sure to coat the manifold bolts with never seize before they go back in, they do break off easy.
The cam works great with the stock manifolds. You won't get any better gas mileage, or power down low, but you will get better power at higher RPMs.
Yes you can do headers. I have used the TSP stainless long tube headers with their stainless y-pipe, . . . the fit is great. You still have to drop the tranny cross member but they do not rub any where. They come with band clamps and Cometic gaskets. bolt up/Connect the passenger side first, then the cross over tube, with the cat back connection. Then connect the header to the crossover tube, and at the same time, bolt the header to the block. Seems confusing now, but you'll see what I'm talking about if you decide to get them.
Get yourself a sawzaw if you don't already with a nice blade, I like the Diablo metal blades.. The manifold to y-pipe bolts are hell to get off, and it's not worth your time or splitting sockets or cussing up a storm. I usually cut the y-pipe right after the cats on both sides. The manifolds will come out the top or bottom with the cats still attached to the manifolds.
06-06-2013, 01:31 PM
#32
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Get yourself a sawzaw if you don't already with a nice blade, I like the Diablo metal blades.. The manifold to y-pipe bolts are hell to get off, and it's not worth your time or splitting sockets or cussing up a storm. I usually cut the y-pipe right after the cats on both sides. The manifolds will come out the top or bottom with the cats still attached to the manifolds.
Funny you mention this, but i already spent about 2.5 hours removing the driver side manifold to pipe nuts. Stripped one so bad i had to weld larger nut on to break it loose. I even prepped by PB blasting overnight. Definitely changing that setup.
I'll check out the tubes you mentioned. Thanks.
06-10-2013, 07:33 PM
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Do you have any more detail on this or know where I can find it? Your post is the first I've found that suggests anything other than deleting the VVT and I'd appreciate any help you can give me.
06-12-2013, 07:42 AM
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I decided against deleting VVT, in order to get engine 6.0 running in its unaltered form (for warranty reasons...1 yr on new take out motor). I wanted to make sure motor was sound before adding cams and other aftermarket accessories.
So original plan has been delayed, i will be adding cam later...but may retain VVT.
I installed the VVT harness last evening and i took lots of pics. It was pretty simple. I'll try to put them up tonight when i get home. I'll be glad to put you in touch with the person that did my harness if you'd like...just pm me.
Barnes
06-12-2013, 08:42 PM
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VVT added to non VVT E38 harness
In the attached pics you'll see the 2 new wires installed in the 61 pin harness on the E38 from the 09 Suburban's original ECM.
06-25-2013, 01:26 PM
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Progress report
Sorry for lack of updates....been waiting on parts, ended up adding headers as the stock manifold studs were a major PITA.
Physical install is complete, just flashed PCM last night with new tune and couldnt get it to turn over. Lights on dash like normal, then turn to start and nothing.
I'm about to reflash with new tune from tuner and disable vats. I've aldready triple and quadruple checked the VVT wiring and that seems good.
I didnt have a chance last night to troubleshoot and i literally just walked out to shop just now with puter, so i'm gonna be checking all the other wiring to make sure i didnt miss anything before i disable the VATS.
I'm open to suggestions!!!
Physical install is complete, just flashed PCM last night with new tune and couldnt get it to turn over. Lights on dash like normal, then turn to start and nothing.
I'm about to reflash with new tune from tuner and disable vats. I've aldready triple and quadruple checked the VVT wiring and that seems good.
I didnt have a chance last night to troubleshoot and i literally just walked out to shop just now with puter, so i'm gonna be checking all the other wiring to make sure i didnt miss anything before i disable the VATS.
I'm open to suggestions!!!
06-25-2013, 02:10 PM
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aahhhh nevermind guys....forget about that last post ;') little purple wire needed a mate.
NEW UPDATE: Just fired it up and did a couple miles, ran great...gotta top off coolant and fill up with premium....new tune is for running premium..
Let me get a few miles on it today and tomorrow and i'll post up all the pics and some specifics on what was done.
NEW UPDATE: Just fired it up and did a couple miles, ran great...gotta top off coolant and fill up with premium....new tune is for running premium..
Let me get a few miles on it today and tomorrow and i'll post up all the pics and some specifics on what was done.
06-25-2013, 05:53 PM
#39
aahhhh nevermind guys....forget about that last post ;') little purple wire needed a mate.
NEW UPDATE: Just fired it up and did a couple miles, ran great...gotta top off coolant and fill up with premium....new tune is for running premium..
Let me get a few miles on it today and tomorrow and i'll post up all the pics and some specifics on what was done.
NEW UPDATE: Just fired it up and did a couple miles, ran great...gotta top off coolant and fill up with premium....new tune is for running premium..
Let me get a few miles on it today and tomorrow and i'll post up all the pics and some specifics on what was done.
Good luck
06-29-2013, 04:48 PM
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Another update on the 6.0 swap.
Working with email tuner, and was having driveability issues. 1st of all, and i'm only speaking of my personal experience....if you have the option of a live and/or dyno tune, that gets my recommendation. Alot of you guys here probably do your own tuning, and i'm getting there...but this was my first "new" vehicle project.
The email tune takes alot of time. I had physical swap completed within a week (most of that was waiting on parts). The email tune, at least with the group im using will take twice that, and if i continue with them probably 3-4 weeks to completion. Granted, this is a swap....which i would expect some back and forth on.
Anyway, apparently the first file i got didnt have DOD disabled (kinda the whole point). It was basically a GMC sierra 6.0 stock tune with my vin. I know, simple to disable...but didnt wanna go changing his file around and confuse anything.
2 days later i get a tune to start with and it starts and idle good, take brief test drive and log data (taking it very easy). all good.
weekend, and then monday i get an updated tune based on log. cranks and engine jerking and idling horribly. ok...reload previous tune and go on drive. runs ok, but i realize when i hit a certain load/rpm/speed it sputters and throws P0606 , service stabilitrak and reduced engine power.
I pull over reflash (didnt realize i could just restart it hehe). get halfway back and same. I logged all of it and sent it back to tuner.
Get an email next day saying it is a transmission module, or a loose ground and that there isnt anything they can do until i get the issue taken care of. hmmmm ok. gave that email a day to settle.
Next day i devote to all sorts of tuning info, training videos, hpt forums, here all while searching p0606. Came across a short thread on HPT that someone had a similar problem with a vette, and he actually came back and posted his fix.
Turns out the tuner used the throttle data/table from the generic 6.0 file, which was somewhat different than my original stock file. It was very different at the throttle position that i was having the codes pop up. I cut and pasted from my original stock tune for every table that used throttle position and BINGO.
Logged about a 15 minute drive with a full range of driving scenarios. no lights, no codes, but now i can really feel the 6.0 difference. I emailed a brief response, with the data log and waiting to hear back...
I also made an appointment for Monday to have it dyno tuned, at a place that i just found about 30 min away.
My point you ask?
If you get a P0606 code, it CAN be from improper ecm programming. If the pcm and tcm have conflicting data it will throw this code. During my search for the problem, there were alot of people advising that pcm must be replaced. A proper reflash CAN fix the issue. Especially if you get the code after some tuning work.
Working with email tuner, and was having driveability issues. 1st of all, and i'm only speaking of my personal experience....if you have the option of a live and/or dyno tune, that gets my recommendation. Alot of you guys here probably do your own tuning, and i'm getting there...but this was my first "new" vehicle project.
The email tune takes alot of time. I had physical swap completed within a week (most of that was waiting on parts). The email tune, at least with the group im using will take twice that, and if i continue with them probably 3-4 weeks to completion. Granted, this is a swap....which i would expect some back and forth on.
Anyway, apparently the first file i got didnt have DOD disabled (kinda the whole point). It was basically a GMC sierra 6.0 stock tune with my vin. I know, simple to disable...but didnt wanna go changing his file around and confuse anything.
2 days later i get a tune to start with and it starts and idle good, take brief test drive and log data (taking it very easy). all good.
weekend, and then monday i get an updated tune based on log. cranks and engine jerking and idling horribly. ok...reload previous tune and go on drive. runs ok, but i realize when i hit a certain load/rpm/speed it sputters and throws P0606 , service stabilitrak and reduced engine power.
I pull over reflash (didnt realize i could just restart it hehe). get halfway back and same. I logged all of it and sent it back to tuner.
Get an email next day saying it is a transmission module, or a loose ground and that there isnt anything they can do until i get the issue taken care of. hmmmm ok. gave that email a day to settle.
Next day i devote to all sorts of tuning info, training videos, hpt forums, here all while searching p0606. Came across a short thread on HPT that someone had a similar problem with a vette, and he actually came back and posted his fix.
Turns out the tuner used the throttle data/table from the generic 6.0 file, which was somewhat different than my original stock file. It was very different at the throttle position that i was having the codes pop up. I cut and pasted from my original stock tune for every table that used throttle position and BINGO.
Logged about a 15 minute drive with a full range of driving scenarios. no lights, no codes, but now i can really feel the 6.0 difference. I emailed a brief response, with the data log and waiting to hear back...
I also made an appointment for Monday to have it dyno tuned, at a place that i just found about 30 min away.
My point you ask?
If you get a P0606 code, it CAN be from improper ecm programming. If the pcm and tcm have conflicting data it will throw this code. During my search for the problem, there were alot of people advising that pcm must be replaced. A proper reflash CAN fix the issue. Especially if you get the code after some tuning work.