Wet plate kit (Nitrous Works), stock pump, put a T fitting in the main line right behind the TB and that was it. I ran a 125 shot even with the hypertech, I just left my base timing at 0*.

 

I have to disagree with the air cleaner lid flip. That just sucks in hot air off the engine. The stock snorkel to the wheelwell takes in cold air, it's just a little restricted. Remove the restriction and you have a free cold-air induction intake. People pay $100 bucks for that.

 

i had the k&n FIPK system, it's designed well, and works..... only time i noticed a difference was when it was super hot outside. 300 bucks, not worth the 1/2 a hp verses a summit 4 5/8 cleanable air filter, with a nice chrome cleaner base and lid. looks awsome, and a nice big filter, fills up the huge engine bay.

but stock cold air setup without the restriction, from personal experiance, versus flipped lid; the flipped lid works better, because it pulls air from everywhere, versus the stock cleaner only pulls from one side. CFM, in my opinion will outweigh temp, untill you get the cfm up. The k&n setup is the premium; you get cfm, velocity and temp, but i think it looked like ****, and i sold it, in favor of the chromie setup w/ big filter. Seat of the pants dyno: they come out even. The reason i feel this happens, is rpm. Tbi, should really never see over 4800 rpm ( unless you're extending for shift point ), so it's just not as tempermental to temperature, as other setups.

this can be argued, many many ways...... i'm just stating, what worked for me.

 

Loudazzlostepside, i have a question, I have a 1993 chevy 5.7, 700R4, with a 2800 stall, the jet pressure regulator, k&N, hooker comp headers, true duals and i think that is it. I want to buy a cam, , and just ordered the hypertech stage 2 chip off the forums today. What do you think i should do camshaft wise, i am looking for a rough idle and moderate performance gains. I am also very interested in the parts you listed, i sent you a pm. What is a intake high pressure pump, i want it too, please pm me asap
Thank you, Tommy

 

the intake pump, is a unit i bought off of turbocity, a lil higher psi than stock.
http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?products_id=4
that exact unit is what i have, brand new, in box. That chip you bought out of the 1990, wont' work for you i dont think. I could be wrong. are you positive it's a 700? cause in 1993 they switched to 4L60e. Another easy way to check, besides the computer chip size, is if you have a tv cable for the tranny, attached to your throttle body. if you don't, it's a 4l60e and it's tps driven through the computer. I have a ton of other **** laying around i think, i'll have to verify. that 2800 stall is way overkill imo for what it's worth. if you wanna talk theory on that..... it's a long discussion, a tbi makes all it's power under 4500, so stalling that hi, bypasses the torque output of the motor. i have a 2200 brand new in a box, too, if you felt like talking about it more, and like what i had to say. and you'd have no problem selling your 2800. If you wanna go real strong, with a cam, bigger injectors with a custom chip, is the correct procedure. But, things really start getting expensive that way, because then you need cfm as well , which is a ported TB, etc...etc... and those aren't cheap for these trucks. i pmed you...... and i have plethera of knowledge on this if you want more.

 

90 and 93 models use different chips. The 93's were the first year that had a speed limiter and the tranny was controlled eletronically. The chips are also physically different in size and shape because the 88-92's completely replace the stock chip (although they are different for each year model I believe), and the 93-95's use a "piggyback" chip that goes on top of the stocker I think.

 

ok guys , i just took of the top and put it upside down and put the screw back.i think that is how you do it??? i want to do the restriction thing too but i dont have the tools right now damn , but anyways is that how you flip the lid?
oh and tomorrow im racin this 96 rcsb 350 stepside with 20s
mine is a 90 350 rcsb stock rims his truck has 200,000 miles ,
mine 240,000 but has had a rebuild from previous owner tranny and motor
his is stock
mine has race wires thats it and the flipped lid.not slow at all just not as fast as my 5.3
any advice? i think his advantage is going to be he doesnt spin like crazy mine does

 

sup guys, im new to performance trucks and i ride a 91 silverado longbed with the 350, my best time before was a 15.9 with fram paper filter, only mod being straight pipe glasspacks with stock exhaust manifolds and no cats.
the mufflers sound ugly but my dad put them so i don't care. It had the 3.08 gears with open differential, but after many burnouts I blew it and opted for 3.42's from a junkyard. I got lucky and the rear-end happened to be a G80 (locking differential) shortly after putting the gears I decided to do a tune up since it had been about 5 years since the last tune up. my dad had champion plugs and one of them actually seized up inside the head. got it out after a panic attack that lasted a day or two. when i did the cap and rotor i didnt know the distributor was loose and screwed up the timing. now i ran a 17 something last time at the track. that made me MAD! I know there is a black wire or something you have to disconnect from the vacuum advance but dont know which one and i try timing it by ear but it sputters when i go WOT off a dead stop. would i have to advance it or retard it? and if so which way would i rotate the distributor?

 

Just try not to spin, he has about 40 hp on you but he is also runnin 20's which is going to hurt him badly. Should be a good run, let us know what happens!

 

It is actually a brown wire behind the relay cover on the pass. side of the firewall. Disconnect it, hook up a timing light, crank it up and check out where the timing is. I would set it to either 0* or 2* BTDC. When you are looking at the motor from the front, turning the distributor counterclockwise will advance the timing and turning it clockwise will retard the timing. After you get it set, tighten the distributor back down and plug the wire back up. **NOTE** The brown wire must be disconnected to set the timing!