1.8 Roller Rockers
#21
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The .004-.010 is what Comp says their CompR lifters have to be set at. The internals of this lifter are much different than a stock lifter (according to them) and any more than that and you run the risk of popping out the retaining clip in the lifter. All the other lifters I know of, are a stock type lifter and get the normal pre-load setting of .040-.060, or wherever the stock preload is.
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When you take one apart, I don't think you will find it much different than stock. The average difference on the clearance between the inner surface of the outer shell and the outer surface of the inner plunger is less than .00025inches, and yes, that decimal point is in the correct place!
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The post above refers to the difference between a stock lifter and any high bleed rate lifter. Why don't you ask them (Comp) how they compensate for the vastly different thermal expansion rates of aluminum block and heads compared to steel pushrods and lifters. I would be real interested in that. FYI, the difference in expansion on a HD motorcycle causes .026" in thermal expansion. That is why its virtually impossible to run a solid roller in an HD on anything but a full race application. The great thing about hydraulic rollers with aluminum engine castings is that they have so much plunger travel to compensate. If you look at Comp's recommendation, it is .004-.010" preload with the engine HOT. Try to get the engine hot, get the valve covers off, change pushrod length (Comp's suggestion) to get preload correct and get the engine buttoned up before it gets much colder and the preload is off. According to Roger Vinci, every hydraulic roller lifter he has tried on every type of engine he has tried (including LS1s and Comp stuff) has worked better with the deeper preload. All I know is he has never steered me wrong, and I would submit that it's worth a try. I don't see how the snap ring could come out. There is a balance of forces between oil pressure and spring pressure that will keep the plunger centered and not allow the snapring to come loose!
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Originally Posted by QuietTahoe
FYI, the difference in expansion on a HD motorcycle causes .026" in thermal expansion.
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Originally Posted by QuietTahoe
The post above refers to the difference between a stock lifter and any high bleed rate lifter. Why don't you ask them (Comp) how they compensate for the vastly different thermal expansion rates of aluminum block and heads compared to steel pushrods and lifters. I would be real interested in that. FYI, the difference in expansion on a HD motorcycle causes .026" in thermal expansion. That is why its virtually impossible to run a solid roller in an HD on anything but a full race application. The great thing about hydraulic rollers with aluminum engine castings is that they have so much plunger travel to compensate. If you look at Comp's recommendation, it is .004-.010" preload with the engine HOT. Try to get the engine hot, get the valve covers off, change pushrod length (Comp's suggestion) to get preload correct and get the engine buttoned up before it gets much colder and the preload is off. According to Roger Vinci, every hydraulic roller lifter he has tried on every type of engine he has tried (including LS1s and Comp stuff) has worked better with the deeper preload. All I know is he has never steered me wrong, and I would submit that it's worth a try. I don't see how the snap ring could come out. There is a balance of forces between oil pressure and spring pressure that will keep the plunger centered and not allow the snapring to come loose!
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Originally Posted by marc_w
Not to change the subject, but it's real ironic that you mentioned that. I'm running into possible expansion/valvetrain problems with my old Ironhead. What's the end result after expansion, more or less lifter preload? Someone suggested that I'm getting additional preload. I haven't had a chance to get into it yet.
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