Tig

iTrader: (2)

I think he means with the stereo it weighs in as stout as an HD. They weigh roughly around 5k stock.

swathdiver

I meant a 2500 Suburban, which weigh about 6500 empty.

TahoeNate

I tried to get mine weighed at the truck stop and wasn't heavy enough. If always heard 5700 for a 2wd Tahoe.

ZO6Ted

I'd just guess 5500 so close enough. Go to a place that buys metal even a salvage yard. Their scales I'm pretty darn sure are certified. They have to be accurate when they buy metal. I've weighed several and had same result.

swathdiver

CAT Scales can weigh your truck and are at many truck stops.

GoatChs

iTrader: (7)

Colby_e32, I was in your shoes 15 years ago with my 2001 4.8L powered 2wd Yukon, and walked the same path of heads & cam but never arrived where I wanted to be. Most of the responses have given you some insight/sound advice, but there is some not so good advice as well. To recap in a single post:

1) I don't believe that you mentioned whether your truck is a 2wd or 4wd, but GM advertised the 2001 Tahoe's curb weight (no passengers or cargo) at 4828 lbs for 2wd and 5050 lbs for 4wd...with 1200 lbs of stereo and just plugging in 300 lbs for you and the wife, you are sitting pretty close to the 6500 lbs that was quoted above when cruising. That is a lot of weight and you need a lot of torque to get that moving.

2) With the "purpose" you cited in your first post of better low end to get your truck moving, your cam, valve springs and converter choice should be extremely conservative. Higher lift/longer duration cams are intended to increase power higher in the rpm range, heavier rated valve springs are intended to keep valves from floating at higher rpm, higher stalls are intended to allow the engine to get into its peak power band (in performance engines that starts typically at 3200+ rpm). I will add that bigger injectors are to supply fuel at the higher rpm ranges as well. None of these are needed to meet your goals of increasing low end torque (below 3000 rpm).

If you are going to do the work yourself, the most cost effective and long term gains would be made with a swap to a low mile stock 6.0L, preferably an LQ9 (345hp/380tq) but the LQ4 (300/360) would also be a big improvement over your LM7 (270/315). This is by no means the "least amount of work", but you also stated that you want to do it "one time, do it all, do it right" and be happy. If you really want to use those 243 heads, get a new set of GM LS6 springs or Comp Cams 918 (both single beehive designs) and they will outlast the valve guides, bearings and piston rings of even a new engine, but they will not add much in the range you are targeting--they were designed to increase power in the 3500-6500 range. As to cam choice, you will have a tough time finding a grind that will give you appreciable gains in the 2000-3500 range (where you are wanting to gain in your LM7)...GM already optimized the torque in this range, knowing that this is where the LM7 engine would spend most of its life. Note that this is also where your stock converter is designed to operate as well, and anything above a 2400-2600 stall will only reduce your driving satisfaction unless you build to target your power range to match it. So, for your goals, the $$-per-hp/tq return is going to be fairly small with a heads/cam approach. Honestly, the path to getting low end torque (in gas engines) is either cubic inches or boost (or both depending on your hp/tq goal). I can tell you that a small twin-screw supercharger (Magnuson MP112 or Whipple W140ax) is not cheap but from a $$-per-power contest it is the hands down best option...unfortunately, from what I've read Whipple drop their 99-02 supercharger application--maybe they would assemble/sell direct if requested. If you are wrench handy, you can install it in a day, it will be good for 50k miles with just a belt and oil change, and most important of all will give you 50-75 hp/tq gains starting at 1200-1500 rpm--without ever pulling the front off your engine. your 243 heads. That WILL put a smile on your face.

Colby_e32

well, I tried to update this thread, don't know what happened..

I decided to go with the TSP stage 2, 212/218, 600/600 112 LSA, with pac 1219 springs, and Hardened pushrods.

Ill be running the Gm MLS headgaskets, and doing a few more gaskets while its apart.

Plans are longtubes, circle D 3000-3200 Stall, and may look into a supercharger, or some boost next season.
Im not expecting huge gains, but If i can get some stock like drive-ability back id be happy.

I appreciate everyone's input on this. I did lots of research before making a decision. I will likely install heads, cam, converter, and exhaust a few steps at a time, tackling a rear main seal, converter in a weekend, and then doing the heads and cam and tune the next weekend. There will be a trucool 40k added with the brackets from the member on this forum as well.

I understand why people push the 6.0 as a cost effective simple upgrade to the lm7, but for now, my engine runs great, and I see no issue with giving it a few ponies and spending a few bucks on it. The only concern I see is my transmission, Im not dead set on throwing an 80e in the truck as im unsure of the wiring and hassle that goes along with it. maybe some folks have some insight on this ?

swathdiver

You should baseline your truck before doing any mods. Either take it to the drag strip and make some runs or visit your local dyno for a few pulls. This way you'll know what works and what doesn't. With that camshaft choice, your good with moving the torque and horsepower bands up higher.

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

It's very easy to do. What sucks about it?

1. Cost of new torque converter
2. Cost of replacement 80e

The wiring is very easy. You can repin the harness, but a swap harness or the relay harness.

Most people will repin the harness, some will by a swap harness and few will do the relay harness (it's expensive).

Often times you can reuse your flexplate. You'll need a tubular crossmember or hack/weld your old one and a segment swap in the PCM (aka, tune) and a few other odds/ends related to the driveshaft.

It's just time and money really.

RPMSpeed Tech

The high lift stage 2 is your best bet. i run it in both my 2500hd trucks.
It gives great towing capability and only gives up power over 5500 to the stage 3 and makes more torque than it.

High lift will always win in that battle.