1. Where is the best place to get a yank converter? The only place ive seen them new is from yank...

2. For those of you with longtubes and an ORY, is it necessary to cut the exhaust to drop the trans?

I just had my trans rebuilt and they had to cut my exhaust to drop the trans, and im wondering if they were just being lazy or there really was no other way.

I didnt put a stall in then because I didnt have time because I needed my truck back right away. I talked to the guy and he said he would install it if I brought him the part and had my exhaust cut myself, for $350. Normally I would do something like this myself but I dont really have the tools, havent done anything with the trans besides a servo, and dont have a welder in case I really do have no other choice than to cut the exhaust.

I really want to keep from hacking up my exhaust if I can help it. If I do have to cut, would it be wise to just use clamps instead of welding so in case I do have to drop the trans again it wont be such a hassle? I'm not sure how clamps would hold up right off the headers...

thanks

 

You'll only need to cut it if it's welded. You can use band clamps depending on where it's cut.
I cut mine when I first changed my trans and used band clamps for quite a while as a temporary fix. The when I got time, I took it in and had some flanges welded in so I could just unbolt it.

Best place to get a yank is the Classifieds here or over on Ls1tech

 

It ticks me off a bit that before the trans guy took it to the exhaust shop he told me they were going to have to cut the exhaust, and the only thing I said was, DO NOT cut the headers. And what do ya know, they cut the headers....

The cut (and subsequent rewelds) are about an inch upwards of were the weld is in this pic:


Did you just band clamp the ends together without one being flared? Would'nt that leak alot? The flanges are a good idea...

I am looking for a tt2600, if you happen to come across one.

 

Mine was cut at the Y pipe. Where they cut yours isn't too bad. Just have the next person cut it a little further down the pipe but not at the bend.
You can get a band clamp in 3" to 3" for some that aren't flanged. It did leak but wasn't all that bad.
The smoother the cuts, the better the pipes will butt back up to each other. Then the clamps can get a better seal on them.

Here's one I found online, I'll show you how I patched mine up and how I have it now if I have the after pics.

 

I see this as semi-permanent since I dont know when this trans will go out or I will have to remove the trans for whatever reason. What about using a flared Y-pipe over the header collectors? Would there be anyway to secure that? Possibly with a band clamp, and it may be more secure than a butt joint, but may be too much effort in the long run.

I am guessing that is too hot for any type of sealing compound like hi-temp rtv.

 

This is exactly why I dont prefer slip fit headers. Go with the ball and joint setup and do not look back. It makes everything so much easier.

 

Honestly I had 3 flanges welded in for like 120 bucks

 

The ball and joint is superior to flanges if by flange you mean 2 flat piece of metal butted up against one another. I've read of too many gaskets melting, blowing out, etc.

 

Could you elaborate on ball and joint?

 

yea. I've read that too. So far no problems other than A couple bolts I couldn't tighten all the way fell out and that of courses blew the gasket. away. Got it fixed tho and got the new ones tight.

Either way, depending on the price of the Ball and joint it shouldn't be to much to just make it a bolt on.