GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Who makes a Stronger 1-Piece DS

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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 10:29 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Tootall
high angle drive line
Tom Woods "woody"
they got a website or phone number?
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 12:40 AM
  #12  
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highangledriveline <-- Bomb proff shafts, 1350s and 1350 2 piece shafts they build all kinda of offroad setups

4xshaft

Buggy jeep, more heavy duty shafts

Last edited by dewmanshu; Jan 22, 2007 at 06:49 AM. Reason: non-sposnored links-PM for real links if you can't figure it out
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 12:47 AM
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well seeing how a an ex cab regular bed and a crew cab short bed have the same exact wheel base i would assume that the crew cab drive shaft would work.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TBSS
When I busted the 72" driveshaft on my Avalanche I talked extensively with Denny's, another company that specializes in driveshafts (Inland Empire Driveline), as well as a local company that has been in the business for 30+ years making racing driveshafts for BMW's, etc.

The consensus was that 1-piece driveshafts like mine or longer were extremely difficult to make properly and make strong, and all of them said they could not design anything fundamentally better than the OEM shaft. They said steel would be too heavy, and if they made me an aluminum one, it would have the exact same characteristics as the stock driveshaft while costing 2-3 times more.

In the end I decided to get another OEM driveshaft and have it high-speed balanced. I also corrected my drive angles, which was key.

Have you taken your truck into a specialty shop that knows what they're doing as far as fixing driveline angles? If not, why not?
I talked to Denny's and IED as TBSS had and even a local diesel-big rig driveline shop in the area.

I actually went to 2 piece. Turns out, I think I was trying to work around a bad pinion seal, but too late, I am 2 piece now. Of course I didn't change my ride height. What kind of power are we talking about here? Ofcourse the real destruction to a shaft is excessive critical speeds on the shaft as I am sure you know. 83 inches at 120MPH in OD would be a scary sight, bet that f-er looks like a damn sign wave. You throw a steel or more solid driveshaft in there at those lengths, I'd be willing to bet you'd hurt your cause more. The aluminum ones soak up some that harmonics, especially the longer they are.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 08:41 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by negativeswitches
they got a website or phone number?
Sorry, but I already posted it, but they've already modded it. Just google those two names and they come up.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tootall
Sorry, but I already posted it, but they've already modded it. Just google those two names and they come up.
I've already talked with High Angle Driveline. He told me that I would never get rid of my vibrations unless I went with his C.V. shaft style DS.
They mainly do lifted trucks anyways. Their info on driveline angles was worthless. He just kept wanting to sell me a C.V. style DS. He said there is no other way.
I guess time will tell.

Jim
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
. . . .
I guess time will tell.

Jim
PM sent
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 03:38 AM
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thanks Tootall.
Well. today DS was taken to Randy's Driveshaft.
Found the the u-joints at the pinion was worn. Pulled a cap in front of me and found one of the stubs the bearing caps ride on was galled up pretty bad.
He said that was my high speed vibe issue and growling noise. I asked why it done that and he said it looked like dirt caused it, but I think driving it with bad angles caused it. He had his doubts on that as a cause.
He said the final DS section was a little out of round. They cut it and re welded the caps. He also replaced carrier bearing and the rest of the u-joints with 1350 high HP u-joints.
Then the whole assembly was balanced.
He also told me that the o.e. u-joints and yokes are already 1350 alloy steel units already.
Well, $352.00 dollars later and I have a rebuilt 2-piece DS..... That sucks.
Will be installing it today after work. Then it will be taken to Cutten Customs. Hopefully they will be able to fix my angle and vibration problems. If they don't, then back to stock suspension it goes.
I just can't believe this lowering kit costed me $350.00!!
Crossing my fingers still....
Will know something by this Friday or Monday.

Jim
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 04:16 AM
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Did you correctly shim your rear diff after lowering? If not, that would definitely cause some vibration issues and could be what caused your bad ujoints. If i were you i would fix the pinion angle before redoing the ds so you dont screw up the new one as well.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 05:48 AM
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That's just it, what do I set my pinion angle to????????????
Don't anyone say tranny output, because when you alter the carrier bearing on a 2-piece shaft, you are supposed to set pinion angle to the output of the first DS section.
I have no idea what it will be set at unless the new DS is placed under the truck. Then again, I don't know what hidth to set the carrier bearing to either.....................
This blows!!!!!!!!

Jim
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