iregret

iTrader: (4)

My truck was lowered with spindles in the front. In the rear I used shackles and removed the lift blocks.

Recently I added rear hangars. To compensate for this in the front, I added lowering keys.

So, I've been on a bit of a lowering key adventure. I've ended up with 3 different sets. My factory keys, lowering keys I bought here secondhand (Groundforce brand), and lowering keys I bought off of eBay.

Rust = factory
Black = Groundforce
Silver = eBay

I went to install my black lowering keys. I lined them up next to the factory ones and I'm still not 100% sure if they're clocked differently. If they are clocked differently, it's minor.



Here's all 3.



And factory vs eBay.



I put my silver keys in and it definitely lowered my truck. Too low really. The keys are adjusted almost all the way out. That netted me this height.




The height measures in at:

DF 30.5
PF 30.75
DR 31.25
PR 32

That's pretty close. Here's my problem.

What's the proper way to adjust ride height while taking bumpstops into consideration?

I'm afraid right now my truck is just riding on compressed bumpstops. I did cut approximately one link out of the factory ones.

I ordered replacement factory stops. I'm not sure what to do with them. Do I remove the factory stops all together, adjust the height where I want it and then add my replacement stops back?

Also, I remember reading about drilling holes in my replacements, but I can't remember where and how many holes. Should I cut one nub off and drill some holes? What have you guys done?

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Here's what's going on with my bumpstops currently. Remember, I cut a nub off.

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Anybody?

Suburbazine

Those aren't bump stops (they are the progressive dampeners) and they are supposed to be compressed. However with your amount of drop the ride will be REALLY rough, plus those look rotten (red is dead, yellow is good). I would recommend not cutting the nipple off of them though, you kinda mess up the limiting function that keeps you from banging into the cup all the time.

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (35)

A lot of the Tahoe/Yukon guys end up buying the Z71 style bump stops and trimming them down or drilling a few holes to suit your own style of ride you desire. Adding the Z71 bump stops usually firms up the ride without being overly harsh. If you trimmed the stock ones they usually end up bottoming out too easily.

How is the ride right now? I've currently got DJM arms but I'm contemplating installing some eBay keys I've had laying around just to get another 1" drop or so.

Mike

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

My personal procedure: take a long, sturdy screwdriver or a pry bar; smash it underneath the rubber stop; rip bump stop out. Carry on living your life. lol

Mine isn't lowered that much...just stock keys cranked all the way down. Rides much better with the stops removed. Its not a prerunner so I don't ever bottom it out. On yours though, I'd be concerned about hitting the cup if you removed the stop.

thunder550

iTrader: (70)

Belltech has a set of lowering bumpers too. That's what I'm running. They come with a threaded stud that has to be cut off, then fit in the housing just like the factory ones, just shorter.

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone have any pictures of drilled bumpstops?

Am I right in thinking I should remove the bumpstops, set the ride height, then install my factory replacement stops? (Progressive dampeners) I understand their function, I just want to get the best ride I can, that's all.

Llaverito

iTrader: (4)

do you have the bolt cranked up all the way at that ride height or are they all de cranked?

cdub81

iTrader: (2)

I did this method after I lowered mine... Drilling front bumpers to smooth-out ride - How To - SilveradoSS.com

I used 2500 keys and McGaughy's spindles