Hey guys, I'm getting my 94 c1500 single cab swapped since the 4.3 finally took a **** on me. It's getting an lq9/4l80e combo with a tsp 224r .600lift 114lsa cam, and also some 243 heads. I will be getting some 4.10 gears also. Any stall recommendations and any personal experience? Any input would be appreciated!

 

Best stall speed will depend on the torque vs RPM curve that the cam produces. Of course, "best" is in some ways subjective; but as far as "fastest", there's a pretty narrow range of answers, most of which are based directly on the cam.

Experience, personal and otherwise, backs this up.

Assuming you have TRACTION (not by any means an automatic or even "easy" assumption) you'll probably want something in or close to the 3500 - 3800 kind of range to go with that cam. With that gear you can get away with a higher stall because the engine is gonna already be up there anyway.

What will this vehicle be used for? What are you willing to give up in pursuit of pure 1320' ET? (gas mileage, street driveability, A/C, other-sex friendliness, etc.) What other mods have been done? (exhaust, intake, tuning, weight reduction other than at the owner's wallet, etc.) Tire size and type?

 

This is just my daily for everything. No towing besides a couple cases of beer lol. Im in a truck club and there's some shows that are at traccs. Maybe 2-3 times a year so besides that probably no track time, but some street racing🤫 More of a street beast!! I have some 20s for some racing and then plan to get some 24s for daily aspects!
I knew mpg isn't going to be to great and with the trade of getting some nice fun power I think I can substitute for smiles per gallon. But besides the rear gears, posi, cam, and heads everything is rebuilt stock for the most part! I'm In ca so I'm trying to stick to carb legal parts so I will be getting some short tubes some magnaflow cats with x pipe and dual carvens r's, thinking of also running cutouts! And the shop doing my build and swap will also be running.

 

The CircleD HP converter would be perfect for this. Get it in a 3200 and roll.

 

Is there a reason why you'd recommend the 278mm over say the pro 258?

 

1. Budget friendly
2. The 258mm is looser than the 278mm.
3. The 258mm is a great DD converter.

I’ve had both. For a DD get the 278mm.

 

The larger the converter, the more gradual the stall, i.e. the greater the RPM range over which the converter hooks up only partially.

A smaller one tends to be more like a "switch"; completely decoupled below the stall speed, completely hooked up above. Best for racing, not so friendly for a DD.

I'd agree with a slightly lower stall for a DD as well, compared to what would be used for a strip-only application, even though it will make the leave kind of lazy by comparison.

The larger tires will likely hurt your traction. You likely wouldn't be able to hook up an all-out-effort drive train anyway.

 

Was there that much of a difference between the two when comparing regular driving? My thing is I feel like the circle d 278 3000-3200 would be to little stall for me. I was thinking a little more would be better considering having the higher lsa rather than the 112.

 

Night and day difference.

The 258mm I had was a 3800. It was loose as fk but that is how I had CircleD build it. It was fun.

That same converter after I lifted my truck to pull our camper (5000lbs) would stall @ 4500. Imagine sitting at a redlight and the truck next to you starts turning 4500rpm to start off?

It was awful for towing. I ended up with a tighter than 72 virgins PATC tow stall.

The 278mm is just right for a DD. If you get it in a 3200, it will be damn perfect.

Trust us, wise we are.

This is the way.

 

thanks for the explanation, I couldn't tell you howany threads I've read with the terms loose and tight but I couldn't seem to comprehend how that would affect it in real world driving. But now what you said made sense to me!!! I don't mind compromising a little on dd aspects but don't wanna go full race car either. What are your thoughts on madman's input🤔