I have too much bump steer & i think (after some measurements) I can flip my heimed tie rods to ease the angle keeping them more in line with the plane of my lca's than I currently have.

2 questions...
1) what is the taper angle on a 00-06 Tahoe tie rod end? I'll need the right tapered sleeve to flip it. Or...
2) where can I find a non tapered stud for my knuckles?

Info is vague from my searching...if i missed anything obvious please let me know.

Thanks, Cameron

 

Not sure how you are going to flip it because of the taper, but you can drill it out and use a straight bolt. 5/8 to 11/16 should take out all the taper, just make sure your heim have an end that can accommodate that.

 

Used Belltech spindles up front?

Mine was horrible with the Belltechs. Swapped them out for McG's and no more bumpsteer.

 

I was going to drill them out & sleeve them or install a straight stud/bolt them I believe the heim will handle it...the angles are funky now...cant see them getting worse...

Stock spindles. Djm lowers...just trying to sort a few things out. Swapping back to stock arms & swapping in coil overs with Atomics brackets.

Cameron

 

You can drill the spindles... I did it with mine to flip my balljoints. it helped the bumpsteer a ton on my truck and also made the steering more responsive.... those are the Pro's.

as for the Con's... steering geometry is already compromised. Since the overall length of the tie rods(from end to end) is most likely going to be less by doing this on a lowered truck, the toe can be effected more easily with suspension travel. I've noticed on the freeway if I hit a huge dip, the wheels will go toe in alot more than they would w/o the balljoints being flipped... I hope that makes sense. This is on rare occasion though. For the most part, the Pro's outweigh the con's for my truck. I'm running 4" drop LCA's and stock spindles.


They sell kits for this, but you can easily do it w/o buying the kit. What you need is the right tapered drill bit with the correct angle for the taper(I cant remember what it is for GM, but I want to say 15 or 30 degrees or somewhere in between?). The trick is to mark the bit with tape, so you ONLY drill the knuckle half way through. This will make an Hourglass shape, and could compromise the strength, but I've done a few like this without any issues. But do it at your own digression... Btw, If you drill any further than half way, you will have to get them re-sleeved. Then get some round pieces of steel or a pair of thick steel washers and weld them to the top of the hole you drilled. Make sure they are centered perfectly. Easiest way I found is to temporarily bolt the balljoint or heim on there with the washer in place. Then tack... And make sure the inside hole of the washer is the same exact diameter of the narrowest part of the taper on the balljoint(or heim, in your case).

There might be other methods that could be better than this.. But I personally like this one, because it can be reversed by grinding off the washers and welding them to the other side.