What kind of cooler plugged up on you? Coolers which have the thicker tube that is in an S-shpae with teh fins coming off of them as it will stop the flow of fluid when it clogs. The other type are setup like a radiator with tanks at either end and the fluid cross flows.

Avoid this type



this is the preferred type





You should be good with the stock in rad cooler (it does most of the cooling as it a liquid to liquid cooler) and a decent aux. cooler.

Not necessarily directed at you Turbohoe, but moreso my general opinion for all who cares to read it. Its my post from another forum.

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Your truck will have an in-rad trans fluid cooler as all GM trucks do, then because you have an HD truck it should have the RPO that includes the external auxillary trans fluid cooler.

The in-radiator cooler will do the bulk of your cooling as it is transferring heat from a liquid into another liquid, even though the trans fluid will only be cooled down to the temperature of the engine coolant.
The external aux. cooler removes heat from a liquid into another fluid, air but has nowhere near the heat transfer capacity that a liquid to liquid cooler does.
An example of this is a piece of metal heated to red hot temps. What cools the metal down quicker?
A) placing the metal in front of a fan blowing air,
or
B)immersing it into a bucket of water?

It's all about transferring heat energy from the more excited trans fluid particles(hotter-faster moving particles) into the less excited engine coolant(cooler-slower moving particles).

In a liquid there is simply more slower particles in close proximity to the hotter particles, so there is more opportunity for fast particles to speed up slower particles. In a liquid to air cooler, there is an equal amount of hot, faster moving particles in the hot trans fluid, but the number of cooler, slower moving air particles is exponentially less, thus the amount of heat transfer is markedly lower. In this scenario, heat can only transfer if a slwoer moving,cooler, less excited particle, is excited by a faster moving. hotter, more excited particles. If there is only so many of each particle, only so much heat can transfer.

If you have 1 gallon of 100° water and mix it with 1 gallon of 50° water, you end up with 2 gallons of 75° water, assuming no losses. the hot water speeds up the slower cold particles and vice versa, and because the ratio of hot and cold particles is 1:1 you end up with 2 gallons of medium speed, warm water particles.

If you used 1 gallon of 100° water and mixed it with 1 gallon of 50° air, you would end up with 2 gallons of water/air mixtures with a temp substantially higher than 75°.; Why, because there are substantially less fewer particles in the gas, than there are in the same volume of liquid. Since there are so many higher speed particles in the liquid and far fewer lower speed particles in the gallon of air, the resultant mixture will have a temperature much closer to the intial temp of the liquid, than that or the cooler less excited, lower temperature gas.


Here is a direct quote from a GM engineer, who is talking about trans fluid temps while towing.
We allow for up to 285 degrees F in extreme conditions (i.e. towing a trailer with combination loaded at GCWR in Death Valley). But for customer usage anywhere else in the country, even at GCWR, transmission sump temperature should stay well below 270 degrees F. Above this point, certain internal components, such as seals, begin to disintegrate rather quickly. Although newer synthetic fluids can withstand higher temperatures we still recommend this (270F) as a maximum temperature. "


A lot of people go gangbusters and use the biggest cooler they can, and sometimes it is needed because they disconnect the in-radiator trans cooler and rely 100% on the liquid to air external cooler. Which is 100% a mistake.
Remember the ability of moving heat from a liquid to air(red hot metal in front of a fan) is less than, the ability of moving heat from a liquid to another liquid. (red hot metal quenched in bucket of water).

If you really wanted to keep your entire setup cooler, I would install a thermostat that opens 15º below a stock thermostat. Not only will your engine run cooler, at the same time your trans fluid will as well(so long as you keep the in-rad cooler in the loop). Also keeping the in-rad cooler active, can help to warm the transmission, at least to whatever the engine coolant temperature is.


Sorry for the book, but this topic comes up a LOT, and people who have seen this chart tend to go overboard.


Under normal driving, heat really isnt generated all too much, even with a loose TC. Where you get major heat production is with a loose TC in a towing situation when the TCC is unlocked.
1/4 mile passes its un-needed, may do some good on long duration WOT bursts like 1 mile drag racing or auto crosses etc. But towing is where you MUST have an in rad cooler and an aux cooler.

No bypass
Oregon Performance Transmission - Rebuild Parts for 700R4 4L60E 4L80E E4OD 4R100 47RE 48RE & More Tru-Cool Max 40,000 GVW Automatic Transmission Fluid Oil Cooler 40K True Long Brand 4739-1 LPD47391

thermal bypass model for cold climates
Oregon Performance Transmission - Rebuild Parts for 700R4 4L60E 4L80E E4OD 4R100 47RE 48RE & More Tru-Cool Max 40,000 GVW Automatic Transmission Fluid Oil Cooler 40K True Long Brand 4739-1 LPD47391

peace
Hog

 

my stock cooler in the rad is plugged up. running the trans for 30sec with cooler outlet into a bucket i might have got 1/2 quart of fluid. runing the trans for about 15 seconds with line coming off the trans precooler into a bucket i filled a 5 quart bucket almost half full.

 

Cool thanks. Ya, for sure somethings going on there.

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Part numbers are for Summit Racing. I hope some of those include fans, or are gold plated. I speced 2004 Chev rads for you.

peace
Hog

 

It's about a 1/2" opening I believe... I ran them on 60E's and 80E's both with no problem with the right fittings.

 

I think I'm gong to go with the ford cooler. Sounds weird installing a ford part.....

 

They should have dimensions and all online to figure out your mounting... They're freaking big...

FYI, the 6.0 cooler is the bigger of the two, I believe it's more than 30 rows of cooler surface.. You'll need some way to keep it warm in the winder lol. Gets your trans a blanky

 

There is the 26 row and the 31 row iirc. The 26 row replaced the 31 row and suppose to be more Efficient. Probably will need a blanky if I leave Florida. Right now we are the warmest state in the country lmao.

 

Ok the newer 26 row which is the better of the two and in the 05 and newer trucks runs like $405 at the dealer. I got it for $271 from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Parts (previously Tousley Ford Parts). Real easy to deal with.

I put the link cause I don't thing we have a sponser that sells these.

 

Yeah. I knew they were high dollar. I used to get the old ones I replaced and chemically clean them with a heated, pulsing flusher and flush/back flush them till I felt good about it lol. 110deg ambient temps, turbo, 3600 stall, heavy truck... Trans never got over 160, and that was several hot lap passes to get it even that hot. I used -6 hose with mine as well.

 

That's damn impressive. Did you go through the rad too or just skip that part?
I thought about the -6 line but was unsure of what hose to use. I can get high pressure steel braided hydraulic line from work if that would work. Working pressure is 3,000psi and it gets pretty hot. I think it's Teflon on the most inner portion.