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t56 troubles...... Clutch Pedal / Master Cylinder

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Old 04-19-2008, 10:16 PM
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Default t56 troubles...... Clutch Pedal / Master Cylinder

I don't think anyone on here has had this problem but I'm going to post it anyways. For some reason the connection between the clutch pedal assembly and the master cylinder SUCKS!!!!! The pedal assembly is only about 6 months old and this is the second one that I know of that failed at the same spot. You can see in the pictures how they connect and where the plastic broke on the pedal assembly. I would like to fab something up instead of buy another pedal thats going to break.
Attached Thumbnails t56 troubles...... Clutch Pedal / Master Cylinder-100_0203.jpg   t56 troubles...... Clutch Pedal / Master Cylinder-100_0205.jpg   t56 troubles...... Clutch Pedal / Master Cylinder-100_0214.jpg   t56 troubles...... Clutch Pedal / Master Cylinder-100_0208.jpg  
Old 04-21-2008, 08:54 PM
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I had one do that too. I had a plate fabed up that would bolt to the firewall to reinforce it, but I lost when I moved. Anyway it was a two-piece plate that was notched so it would fit around the master cylinder. I was then going to put riv-nuts into the firewall and bolt the plate to it.

If I had to diagnose why it did that, I would say its a combination of things. If the master cylinder gets crooked or shifted at any angle other than upright, then it puts too much stress on the plastic. Also if you're running a stiff clutch, which I was, that'll do it too. Powershifting it/stabbing the clutch will do it too.

FWIW, my first one was used with unknown mileage, and it left me stranded on the side of the road in neutral. Luckily I got it into gear while my friend's dad pushed and I was able to get it home, as long as I didn't stop. I bought a new one the next day (~$60) and it was in the truck from then on with no issues.

If I had to do it again, I'd put the plates on or just fab up and adjustable master cylinder.
Old 04-21-2008, 10:46 PM
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i had one do that also after my t56 swap. but mine did that cuz my hydrualic connectoin wasnt seated all the way. it caused too much pressure on the pedal and the plastic gave first. it sucked. i changed it out with a new one i bought from gm, and havent had any problems since. best of luck to ya.
Old 04-22-2008, 05:20 PM
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I have a spec clutch and stainless braided line so yea.... I bought some 2 & 1/2" exhaust pipe and I picked up some metal from work thats about 18gauge. With a little more practice with my new Lincoln wire welder I'll make a metal mount for the master cyl.

After going through all this I think I see a short cut for those planing on an A4 M6 swap. Just Cut a whole in the fire wall so you can lock the master into it and cut off the mount on the pedal. Than you might not have to extend the rod that connects to the pedal

Thanks for the input guys
Old 04-22-2008, 05:51 PM
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Post up them pics of what ya fab up. Let us now how it works out. I also like the idea of a T56 swap. IIRC, did I read w/a trucks' weight, clutches don't last long in T56 -equipped trucks? Other problems, particularly if ongoing. Shakin, Vanilla & RED, please post up if you'd do again. Give me a few minutes, post here or as not to threadjack, I want to tally up who all did conversion. I wanna key in on A4- M6, but want contributors. I'll start a new conversion thread, maybe a poll who did it.
Old 05-04-2008, 02:08 PM
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Here are a few pics for anyone who might be interested. It might not be pretty but the problem is solved!! After installing my master cylinder mount the firewall flexed when pressing the clutch pedal. Thats why there is a peice of steel welded across the firewall


Last edited by shakinlm7; 05-04-2008 at 02:16 PM.
Old 05-04-2008, 02:17 PM
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Shakin, no pics...?

Nevermind, got em. Good to see it worked out.

Last edited by fastnblu; 05-04-2008 at 02:20 PM. Reason: Pics are up now.
Old 05-04-2008, 06:18 PM
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Hope you got it fixed for good this time man, is your clutch pedal still crooked?
Old 05-04-2008, 06:43 PM
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Mine broke back when I had my exoskel dual disc clutch. I made a square plate(~3"x4") out of 3/8" aluminum with a U cut-out in it. The U slipped over the master and 4 3/8" lag bolts into the firewall so I didn't have to worry about getting a nut on the back side. I didn't have to bother with removing the brake Master cyl to complete this as well is why I did it this way...quick and effective. It has held in fine for a year+ now.
Old 05-04-2008, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by adam1803
Hope you got it fixed for good this time man, is your clutch pedal still crooked?
I cut the brake pedal down and put the the pad on than made an adjustable master cylinder rod so the pedals look (and work) a LOT better
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