Asphalt is about the only thing I can get a good launch on. I have found that tipping into the throttle to about 1000RPM and holding, then releasing brake and slamming the gas at the same time works best for me. That seems to transfer weight the best and carries the front end at the top of the suspension for the first 60 feet. Also, if you have adjustability over your shocks' firmness, let the front go as soft as possible and set the rear about midway. Not to stiff in the back or the tires will chatter. I can't slam the gas from an idle or weight transfer is so violent it actually rebounds off the rear jounce bumpers and breaks traction right there. Like this: PIC
If I stall up the converter any more than 1000 it doesn't hook for anything. On concrete forget it, it just spins until it shifts to second or until I let off - whichever comes first.
I am still running a stock converter for a L31 in the 4L80-E. If this changes I will have to modify my launching techniques yet again. Really the most predominant factor is the road surface. I've been on asphalt I can't hook on too. Like this video for example (probably 60HP worth of mods ago too.) http://bertok.us/pics/launch4.mpg
Of course those tires were GT-II's on rims too skinny for them and those tires are **** anyway. I've learned. The Yokos are much better and I've got them on the proper rims.

 

James, what's the curb weight on that Tahoe? My '02 Yukon doesn't do the "booty-bounce" like yours. Either that thing's got serious weight distribution issues, or you need stiffer shocks. I see a lot of low-end torque, though. That rocks!

 

At that time it was probably about 5700. It's about 5900 now. I run Rancho 9000's on all four with an internal controller. The controller (just a pump and simple trims for front and rear) is to adjust the firmness. They were aired down for that video.

 

I will be seeing how my new Toyo S/T's hook @ HRP soon enough. I dont know if it will help or hurt launching with a 6-link rear air suspension...... if not, I will dump at the 1/8 mark and drag the rest of the track.... LOL

 

I would bet that you will get the best launch with the rear suspension as low as you can without scraping, and the front as high as you can get it. Seems like that would get the most amount of weight transferred to the back.

 

I wouldnt think so because it throws off your center of gravity, and the *** end would run out of suspension travel causing nasty wheel spin. If any thing Id say shackle up the *** end, put in a set of lift bars/anti wrap bars, and drop the front.

 

4wd. Ty-Sy shuffle. Stall to 2600. Off brake and mash it. Street or strip, unless the roads are damp then there is 4 wheel drift envolved, all my launches look like the one in the my sig. Kind of like cheating huh?

 

my buddys s10 has bags . when we went to the track he was lanuching with it aired out like he does on the street and was nailing 2.5 60 foots . i got in for three runs messing around with it and found the sweet spot at 35 psi in the rear . i was gettin 2.3's with it then , and it might hbave helped i have experience running on a track

 

If you can change the pressure between sides, try putting a little more in the passenger side rear, because when you floor it the axle actually twists alittle and lifts that side some causing an uneven plant and a crooked launch.

 

yeah the switch box and valve set up will allow me to adjust each corner individually... the tires will help me hook better though for sure... anything is better than worn out POS goodyears.