moregrip

iTrader: (8)

I was thinking something like this for a traction/anti wheel hop device:

Mort

Well I don't know about traction/anti wheel hop but at least you will have a good view if you don't get a nose bleed....LOL

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

lol, just the traction bar part

thunderwagen

iTrader: (3)

some of the lightning guys use bars like those. Damn dude if you are actually getting around to putting stuff on your truck I may have to do the same before I start looking bad. That is after I get it back from fixing that broken axle!

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

yeah, it was alot of grunt work I wanted to get out of the way before my transition vacation starts later this month (i.e. the install period).

Mort

Did you research those bars any more? Are you going to try a set? With 4WD I don't really have to worry about traction but have to sacrifice for weight and drive train losses. Always a trade off of some sort.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

waiting to hear back from the guy who owned the truck in the pic. what I like about them is they are bushing isolated, the caltracs are incredibly noisy, at least they were on my rig, sounded like my truck was built in 1905 instead of 2005

anyway, I also have a plan B which would be to modify my existing Caltrac bars and replace the heim joints with bushings.

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

hey Mort, also maybe you can help me out, I think I'd like to be another 2" lower out back. What do you think about getting some 2" drop hangers and a carrier bearing spacer?

Mort

So I assume that you want to keep your velvet ride shackles to keep your ride quality. The hangers will work for sure but drilling out the rivets can be a real bear. If you can rent a heavy duty air chisel it will make the job much easier. Are your hangers riveted or welded in? I have a lighter duty chisel and it was sooooo...slow I still drilled the rivets and just used the chisel to pop the heads off when they were drilled most of the way through. It took me over 30 minutes a rivet and there are 6 or 8 a side. It was a long job. I managed to squeeze my hand up behind the tank and used a claw tool to hold the bolts so I did not need to move the tank. I think you will need to but those shims back in facing toward the front this time with the hanger install.

I installed a DJM carrier bearing bracket CB#99 from Summit for 32.39 + handling and shipping to Canada (over $100). To install it you need to cut the carrier bracket off the round cross member and drill two holes and mount the DJM part to it. Well it did not work too well. I mean how do you mount a flat plate to a round and curved surface with two bolts? I took it to a shop and they welded a flat 1/2" steel plate to the round cross member and we bolted the DJM bracket to it and all was good. Fussy work getting it all straight but not too bad. It took 2 hours and $200 to get that straightened out. Beltech makes a more expensive and better designed re-locater bracket but it would not work with the style of carrier bearing on my truck and possibly yours.

That is my experience with that work and yes it will work fine but it is a time consuming job and I needed outside help with the carrier bearing relocation. I took some tubing I had and mashed one end flat to make up spacers to hold the DJM bracket in place until I had the plate welded in. I did a few WOT runs with it installed like that. It really worked fine but I could not leave it jury rigged like that.

Well I hope that I have not discouraged you from tackling that job.....

moregrip

iTrader: (8)

Hmmm, what if I 86'd the velvet ride shackles and installed 2" drop shackles, easier right, then the impact might only be another deg or two of negative pinion angle, which I could correct with a carrier bearing spacer. Heck, I'd make my own, a flat piece of metal stock with two 1/2" holes drilled and call it done. I have about an extra 1/2" of thread left on the carrier bearing stud....