axekick

iTrader: (15)

Alright. I got the transfer case out. I just left the front driveshaft on it and removed the front crossmember again. Thats definitely not a one man job. I'll get some help to put it back in. Now I'm to the next obstacle. How do you disconnect the shifter cable? It looks to me like the easiest way is to remove the two torx bolts from the bracket on the side and remove the nut from the little lever. Is that right or is there a better way?

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

My front driveshaft just pulled out of the transfer case, yours may be a little rusted or something...

As for the shifter cable, it can be a PITA. You can get the cable out of the bracket by removing the clip, then remove the nut off of the lever, and slide the cable forward so that the plastic retainer part is clear of the bracket, and slide the cable out of the notch...if there's enough room between the bracket and trans pan. I'm not 100% sure as I had to remove my bracket anyway to remove the trans pan to drain the fluid (I had to return my trans core back to FLT and they want it empty). If you need to remove the bracket, there are two torx fasteners on top that suck to do (as torx often do since the opening never goes deep enough into the fastener). If and when you do get the torx fasteners out, be sure to put some anti-sieze on the threads upon re-installation. My rear most torx fastener stripped, and I had to remove the front one, then pry the bracket out of the way of the pan to remove the pan. Once I got the trans out and on the ground, I used an air chisel to break the torx fastener loose and remove it. I replaced both of the torx bolts with regular 13mm bolts...I think they were two of the 13's that I removed from my rear diff cover when I installed my TA rear girdle.

The biggest PITA, the neutral safety switch...don't even attempt to disconnect the electrical connectors, or you'll probably end up with busted wires and/or broken connectors. I believe that the connectors have some sort of glue holding them in, from what I've read, so I didn't even bother. I removed the two bolts holding it in, the retainer and nut around the selector shaft, and let the nsw hang from the harness. I think that I used a flex head gear wrench for the rear bolt since it's partially blocked...

Here's some pics of my trans swap, in case you didn't check my link...

My neutral safety switch method:


Shift cable bracket that kicked my ***...you can see the notch that I referred to, and notice how it's facing the trans pan, and not outward so that you can easily slide the cable out...thanks GM


Here's what I had to use to get that #@!$%&* torx fastener out


You can see where the front driveshaft yoke just slides into the splines here:


Putting the transfer case back in definitely sucks, I don't see how anyone could do it alone. I was able to muscle it right out, but to get it in, you need to line up the output shaft and studs on the case, and be careful not to rip the transfer case adapter gasket. We got my case up and out of the way, then used tie straps to hold it in place while we got a floor jack underneath it to hold the weight of the case. Then we wrestled and shifted it until we got it to line up, it sucked, but it's much better than removing the torsion bar cross member, and having to dick with getting the torsion bars back in at the right setting, setting the ride height, and getting an alignment which should be done any time that the ride height is messed with...unless you're sure that you got the torsion bars back exactly where they were. Not to mention, you need a special tool to unload the torsion bar keys, or take your chances with a C-Clamp, which can be both tricky and dangerous.



This 14.4v 3/8 drive impact gun from SnapOn is expensive, but it kicks ***. I used it to remove every bolt possible, and it broke them all loose, except the bellhousing bolts, which I broke loose by hand then ran out with the SnapOn gun. They also make a 1/2" gun that I'm sure would have broken the bellhousing bolts loose, as I've used it and it kicks ***. I just don't have the $550+ for that tool right now. My 3/8" was over $500 as it was...

axekick

iTrader: (15)

Thanks Bud! I did go over your thread last night. Those torx bolts came right out on mine. Then the end came loose by itself. I think its missing the clip, but I've never had a problem with it before. I got the tranny out. My Dad's helping me out now so its much nicer. I got a new front seal. I'm going to put that in then its time to put this baby back together. I wish I could say that the hard part is over. Oh yeah, I got all the plugs to come loose too. The only thing I broke was a little fitting that goes into the transfer case that a hose slips onto. I think its just a vent. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. I also have to run to Auto Zone and see if they have a transfer case gasket. I certainly won't be using my old one now.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Glad you got it out and I'm glad to help. That's awesome that you got your NSW unplugged, I've heard nothing but horror stories about it, and even seen pics of carnage. I gave mine a quick tug, but once I got some resistance I quit and did it the way that I pictured.

That thing that's on top of the t-case is a vent...you may have to get creative and get some sort of metal tube that fits in there to hook the hose to. You could leave it alone, but you may get debris in there without the hose routing the vent out of harms way. Whatever you do, don't plug that vent.

Your clip for the shift cable may be missing, the plastic part clips into the bracket, then a metal u-clip goes into it to keep the plastic tabs spread out. When we did my trans, we lost that clip, and I drove around for about 2 weeks without it while the dealership tried to track down the right one...that clip was hard to find in their computer. Then when the "right" clip finally came in, it didn't fit snug...so I looked around the parking lot where we did the swap and I found the old clip! It was a little rustier than before from laying on the ground for two weeks in the elements, but it worked

axekick

iTrader: (15)

Do you remember the specs for the TC to mating surface specs? Mine is right at 1". The spec I found was 1.125". Is it not on all the way?

axekick

iTrader: (15)

What do you think about using gasket maker to seal the transfer case to transmission? I can't find a gasket around here.

black04

iTrader: (15)

You need to get the tcase gasket at the dealership

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

It is much easier to drop the trans when you take the tcase off first, ive done it both ways and with the unit as one it is definately harder. To put the tcase back on I put the adapter thing on the trans so I can get the crossmember back on, after that I lift the tcase and hold it with one arm while turning it with the other and line it up on the output shaft.

The really hard part is lining the bellhousing up with the engine.

axekick

iTrader: (15)

I got the tranny bolted up to the engine without any issues. I've snuged the torque converter bolts but I need to go through and make sure everything is tight. I'll swing by a dealership tomorrow and see if I can get that gasket. I think its called the transmission fluid pump gasket. I'm taking off from work tomorrow but I'll probably spend the time getting started on the cam install and save the rest of the Tranny stuff until I have some help later in the day. I hope the cam is easier to do than the transmission. Although, I must say, I could do it a lot faster if I had to do it again.

DrX

iTrader: (7)

Its called the "tranfer case adapter gasket."

The boot on the front driveshaft may have a clamp on it that has to be removed to pull the front DS out of the transfer case. The 80E style front DS that I have now has a different style boot that just snaps onto the t-case output shaft.

I cannot drop my t-case without dropping either the torsion bar cross member or trans first. Best bet is to unload the torsion bars and remove the torsion bar cross member to get some room.