Rebuild the junkyard 4L80E?
08-08-2013, 01:04 PM
#1
Rebuild the junkyard 4L80E?
Found a 4L80E from a 1999 Chevy 3500 locally with around 80K miles on it. I'm going to pull the pan and check for metal bits before buying it. Assuming there is no metal in the pan, would you guys recommend rebuilding it anyways? And by rebuild I mean freshen up, replace the wearable items, etc.
I rebuilt the T56 that's in my truck now and it's worked flawlessly, but an 80E is another ball game. I'm a DIY'er and would like to rebuild it myself, but I'm worried that too many special tools are required or that I could really screw something up.
It will be behind a turbo 5.3L ECSB 2WD with about 600rwhp now but would like the trans to be able to hold 700-800rwhp for the future. It's 100% street driven, street tires, daily driver, it will never see the track. I don't plan on locking at WOT. I'm going to use a single-disk ~2800rpm stall and an HD-2 shift kit.
Thanks!
I rebuilt the T56 that's in my truck now and it's worked flawlessly, but an 80E is another ball game. I'm a DIY'er and would like to rebuild it myself, but I'm worried that too many special tools are required or that I could really screw something up.
It will be behind a turbo 5.3L ECSB 2WD with about 600rwhp now but would like the trans to be able to hold 700-800rwhp for the future. It's 100% street driven, street tires, daily driver, it will never see the track. I don't plan on locking at WOT. I'm going to use a single-disk ~2800rpm stall and an HD-2 shift kit.
Thanks!
08-10-2013, 01:06 AM
#2
Found a 4L80E from a 1999 Chevy 3500 locally with around 80K miles on it. I'm going to pull the pan and check for metal bits before buying it. Assuming there is no metal in the pan, would you guys recommend rebuilding it anyways? And by rebuild I mean freshen up, replace the wearable items, etc.
I rebuilt the T56 that's in my truck now and it's worked flawlessly, but an 80E is another ball game. I'm a DIY'er and would like to rebuild it myself, but I'm worried that too many special tools are required or that I could really screw something up.
It will be behind a turbo 5.3L ECSB 2WD with about 600rwhp now but would like the trans to be able to hold 700-800rwhp for the future. It's 100% street driven, street tires, daily driver, it will never see the track. I don't plan on locking at WOT. I'm going to use a single-disk ~2800rpm stall and an HD-2 shift kit.
Thanks!
I rebuilt the T56 that's in my truck now and it's worked flawlessly, but an 80E is another ball game. I'm a DIY'er and would like to rebuild it myself, but I'm worried that too many special tools are required or that I could really screw something up.
It will be behind a turbo 5.3L ECSB 2WD with about 600rwhp now but would like the trans to be able to hold 700-800rwhp for the future. It's 100% street driven, street tires, daily driver, it will never see the track. I don't plan on locking at WOT. I'm going to use a single-disk ~2800rpm stall and an HD-2 shift kit.
Thanks!
If you have the money for it, to spend on a new tranny, (in case it doesn't go well the first time) I say do it yourself because its all about learning after all. If not then like myself I tend to let my shade tree mechanic knowledge stand aside for someone more knowledgeable to tackle the hard parts. The devil is in the details after all.
08-10-2013, 05:08 PM
#3
Well I pulled it all apart today. I got at far as I could without using special tools. The clutch packs all look really nice, but since it's apart I might as well replace them with better ones. All the gears looked good too. No obvious damage except for a couple things that concern me.
The little ***** in the valve body seem to have moved around a lot and mashed the aluminum of the casing. Only 4-5 of them show this going on, two of them were pretty bad. A similar thing was going on on the valve body itself, but not as bad. Is this something to be concerned about?
The little ***** in the valve body seem to have moved around a lot and mashed the aluminum of the casing. Only 4-5 of them show this going on, two of them were pretty bad. A similar thing was going on on the valve body itself, but not as bad. Is this something to be concerned about?
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