Performabuilt or Finish Line
#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 19
From: NewBern NC/Lake Havasu City AZ
my stage 2 performabuilt just blew the hell up this evening. pulling onto the highway 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, big bang and then no forward gears, reverse works but clunky. Had it for about 2 years with no issues, with a circle D stall. Does anybody no what they charge to go back through and rebuild it, warranty is far over.
#13
my stage 2 performabuilt just blew the hell up this evening. pulling onto the highway 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, big bang and then no forward gears, reverse works but clunky. Had it for about 2 years with no issues, with a circle D stall. Does anybody no what they charge to go back through and rebuild it, warranty is far over.
#14
#16
Make sure to go with the level three with the oem 5 pinion planets and get a billet output shaft in there! I'm guessing the output shaft broke or the front planet if I had to guess. HTH Vince
#17
+1, factory 5 pinion planets and billet shafts are a must IMO. The aftermarket planets are junk, and even "hardened" shafts break consistently in performance applications.
#19
I am VERY happy with my PerformaBuilt LVL2. I recently had my old G80 and rear diff bearrings upgraded to a truetrac with new seals and bearrings through out. The local shop that did the rebuild made several comments about how positive the shifts felt during his test drive. He made a point in saying that he went back to the shop to pick up one of the other guys that works there to let him feel it. Both of them were very impressed with how it operated and called the trans a beast.
#20
Is anyone running a PB lvl 1?
They rate it to 500RwHP, I MIGHT be at 375 on the high side.
I don't see why I'd need to move to the lvl 2 rated to 700RWHP when I'm at roughly 60% of that at the crank. I mean, I guess it's added insurance, but what would the chances be of me tearing up a lvl 1 when I'm over 100 HP under what it's rated for?
Same thing on the other side, if I decided to go FLT, would i be just as well off going with their lvl3 vs. lvl 5? etc
EDIT : Looking at 4L60's
They rate it to 500RwHP, I MIGHT be at 375 on the high side.
I don't see why I'd need to move to the lvl 2 rated to 700RWHP when I'm at roughly 60% of that at the crank. I mean, I guess it's added insurance, but what would the chances be of me tearing up a lvl 1 when I'm over 100 HP under what it's rated for?
Same thing on the other side, if I decided to go FLT, would i be just as well off going with their lvl3 vs. lvl 5? etc
EDIT : Looking at 4L60's



