it rides pretty good i'd say. i cut one "nub" off the front bumpstops.

 

That's cool. OK guys- I'm gonna yank the blocks outta my rear- where do I get the pin for the middle of the spring pack and what's the P/N for 2wd Ubolts. After that I plan to do 1.5- 2 turns out on the bars upfront.............

 

Heres the PN-15002781, and these we're for my 2000 Silvy...Im gunna assume their same for you...

I just took out the blocks and twisted the T-bars down...I had to cut a nub off the bump stop so the ride wasnt awful...I really want to do spindles cuz the ride is spongy...you dont need a pin or anything...it will just bolt right up with the new u-bolts...

 

Yeah-, that's my big concern, a spongy ride. How big a job is it to change out the spindles; will I need to disconnect the t- bars and all that or can I just raise the truck and take the tension off and take everything apart..............

 

I'd like to do spindles also, but besides being broke, I also use my 16" wheels in the winter. I went with Belltech lowering keys, 2" shackles, spring clamps, and removed the lift blocks in the back. With my bumpstops trimmed right, the ride is OK, a little mushy, but bumpsteer is pretty bad. The truck jumps when I hit a good pothole or expansion joint. There's pics in the link in my sig...

 

what are the spring clamps used for?...

 

They go on the front of the rear leaf springs and clamp the leafs tightly together, whichs helps traction...alot of guys use them for drag racing actually. One side effect of the spring clamps is that it lowers the rear almost a half inch. You can get them at AutoZone for about 12 bucks.

 

Ive heard of some people using them to help with wheel hop...did I help you or you never had the problem...ride any different?...

 

I don't really have a wheel hop problem (truck isn't fast enough lol), but the clamps are supposed to help with that. As far as riding different, I've heard that sometimes the ride gets harsher, but I didn't notice any difference. The truck did come down a little less than 1/2" after I installed them.

 

Pretty much just jack it up and unload the bars to remove the knuckles. You don't have to, but you should invest in some new ball joints if they have never been done, and you might find that your upper ball joints are not replaceable. Meaning you will have to buy new upper control arms with new ball joints in them. With the new uppers you will be able replace the ball joints later on down the road. Take a good look at your idler arms, pitman arm, tie rod ends, and replace as needed. When I did my lift I replaced all the wear items under the front end, and spent about $500 at NAPA doing it! Just good insurance replacing everything, but you don't have to replace everything. I would do at least upper and lower ball joints since you are taking the knuckles off, and anything else that looks or feels worn out.