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NBS rear end clunk cheap fix

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Old 01-06-2016, 10:46 AM
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Default NBS rear end clunk cheap fix

So after reading, I believe, every piece of information on the internet regarding the ridiculous rear end cluck on the nbs trucks, I tackled mine and wanted to share a simple and cheap fix (bandaid).

Let me just say. my 2002 rcsb has never made a peep. My recently acquired 2004 CCSB was SOO bad I started my inspection by checking the u-bolts because it sounded and felt like it was rotating in them. Of course it didn't do it when I test drove it, but got rapidly worse. Starting, stopping, shifting, turning. Everything made it clunk.

One of the first things I noticed is that the gap from the leaf springs to the helper spring was considerably different from one truck to the other. RCSB has a sizeable gap. The Crew cab has almost none. My opinion is that the springs are just far too weak for the weight difference between the two. It is then compounded by a large lift block. My plan in the future is to remove the block and perform a shackle flip.

I read all kinds of ideas for fixes. New slip yokes, top secret grease formulas, racquet *****?!, etc. I read quite a bit as well about traction bars and ladder bars and found some interesting info. But laying under the truck and rocking it back and forth while watching things led me to do one simple thing. I clamped the front of the leaf springs to the helper. Boom. Done.

Not completely, but close. I couldn't ride around with a c-clamp (mostly cause I need them) on the springs, but a quick trip to Autozone and $15 got a spring clamp kit. Basically a u bolt and flat plate. I have since added a spacer in the rear of the spring to activate the helper spring and another clamp there as well. All this has served to utilize the strength of the helper spring to stiffen the spring pack and prevent the rampant axle wrap I was experiencing. It isn't completely cured. I can still get a clunk if I take off while turning at a bumpy intersection. In general though, I would call it a solid 97% better than it was. From becoming infuriating to basically forgetting about it. Your results may vary, but if it's plaguing your truck it's worth a try. Hope this helps somebody from losing their mind.
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Last edited by Fuelerfire; 01-06-2016 at 12:55 PM.
Old 01-06-2016, 11:24 AM
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I hope you didn't clamp BOTH ends of the spring. The individual leaves are supposed to be able to move relative to each other.
Old 01-06-2016, 11:52 AM
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I had 1/2 a raquet ball in my slip yoke for 15k miles... completely took away my clunk.

With that being said... when I did my converter swap, I pulled the ball, which was in perfect condition still.

Greased the yoke and it's been silent for the last 15k also.
Old 01-06-2016, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by axisT6
I hope you didn't clamp BOTH ends of the spring. The individual leaves are supposed to be able to move relative to each other.
I did briefly but realized it needed the movement. The rear has a bolt coming up through the helper springs with a nut between the helper and the leaf pack to keep contact between them. It's a little stiffer but not in a bad way. Just feels more controlled.
Old 01-06-2016, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by GM1697
I had 1/2 a raquet ball in my slip yoke for 15k miles... completely took away my clunk.

With that being said... when I did my converter swap, I pulled the ball, which was in perfect condition still.

Greased the yoke and it's been silent for the last 15k also.
I was considering doing that because I understand how it would function, but I read about a couple people developing problems with the increased pressure on the transfer case output.

Probably varies from truck to truck like the clunk itself.
Old 01-06-2016, 01:02 PM
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Yeah I initially was worried about the pressure on the TC, but didn't notice anything negative. I think the half ball was small enough to not screw things
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